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A GRADED COURSE in 
CORD RAFFIA LACER 
WORK and SEWING 
for ELEMEN TAR Y 
SCHOOLS 



ANITA MILLS EARL 

Teacher of Sewing 
New York Training School For Teachers 



Published by the Author 
New York City 



LBl54l 
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Copyright 1913 
ANITA MILLS EARL 



JAN -2 1914 

©Cl.A3621^0 



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PREFACE 



^ 



These leaves have been put together with the hope that they 
may prove of service to my many students, both of the Normal Col- 
i lege and of the New York Training School for Teachers, who are 

Q now, or are yet to become part of the great body of teachers in the 

^ Public Schools of New York City. This little work has been an 

outgrowth of need. Its value will best be demonstrated when it has 
^ stood the test of use and criticism. It aims to be nothing more than 

^ an illustrated course in sewing, following the general lines of the 

Course of Study and Syllabus in Sewing prescribed by the Board of 
Superintendents for use in the Public Elementary Schools of New 
York City. The problems worked out are therefore limited in char- 
acter. While there has been no thot in its preparation of use 
beyond this special field of work in New York City, it is hoped that 
if it fall into the hands of anyone connected with other Boards of 
Education, some, if not all, of the problems may appeal with sufficient 
force to make their adoption possible. 

My thanks are due, not only to the many students who have 
given so generously of their time and effort in assisting me, but also 
to the Board of Superintendents, New York City, through whose 
courtesy permission is granted to print the Course of Study and Syl- 
labus in vS'^ze/m^ prepared jointly by Mrs. Jessup and Miss Hutchinson, 
Directors of Sewing in the City. 

I wish to confess to some slight modifications in places where it 
seemed to me wise, — but in all essentials it is the course in use in 
the Public Schools. 

Anita Mills Earl. 

New York City, August, 1912. 



c 



FOREWORD 

Thruout an attempt has been made to place emfasis on 
good Construction, — on strong methods of beginning, joining and 
ending, on the selection of form for strength and beauty, on good 
proportion, and on color combinations that are as choice as the ma- 
terials will allow. While we cannot expect perfection in the finisht 
article from small children, we can emfasize good workmanship, and 
insist that things shall stand the test of use. 



A FEW NOTES ON THE MANUAL TRAINING MOVEMENT IN THE 

UNITED STATES AND THE INTRODUCTION OF MANUAL 

TRAINING INTO THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS 

OF NEW YORK CITY 

THE MANUAL TRAINING MOVEMENT IN THE UNITED STATES 

The Annual Reports of the Commissioner of Education give us, perhaps, 
the best account of the history and development of the manual training move- 
ment in the United States. The following excerpts have been made from 
various Reports: 

"Manual training is by no means a novelty in American schools. Thomas 
Jefferson recommended it for the students of the University of Virginia, and 
Benjamin Franklin included it in his plan for an Academy in Philadelphia. An 
active propaganda was carried on in behalf of manual labor in educational insti- 
tutions for many years, beginning about 1830, and some of our foremost institu- 
tions had their origin under its influence. 

"But what is now known as manual training is traced to an exhibit of an 
institution (Imperial Technical School of Moscow) at the Centennial in Phila- 
delphia in 1876. The value of the system of manual training there suggested 
was recognized by such" men as Louis D. Runkle and C. M. Woodward, who 
became advocates of the new idea and introduced it into the institutions under 
their charge. 

"Strong opposition was met for a time among schoolmen, but manual 
training has steadily grown in popularity, and method, and consequently in 
usefulness. 

"In 1896, manual training was an essential feature in the public school 
course of 95 cities. In 359 institutions other than city schools, there is training 
which partakes more or less of the nature of manual training, and which belongs 
in a general way to the same movement. These institutions embrace almost every 
class known to American education and the manual features vary from the purely 
educational manual training of the Teachers' College in New York City, to the 
direct trade instruction of the apprentice school."'^ 

Report for i8p6-i8g/, vol. 2, page 2279. 

In 1898 there were 146 cities in whose public schools manual training other 
than drawing was taught. 

The following table will indicate the distribution of these cities thruout 
the United States : 

California 8 Maine 4 New York 16 

Colorado 3 Maryland 1 North Carolina 1 

Connecticut 7 Massachusetts 33 Ohio .11 

Delaware 1 Michigan 3 Pennsylvania 5 

District of Columbia 1 Minnesota 5 Rhode Island 3 

Illinois 9 Mississippi 1 Texas 1 

Indiana 2 Nebraska 1 Virginia 1 

Iowa 4 New Hampshire 2 Washington 1 

Kentucky 3 New Jersey 10 Wisconsin 8 

Report for T8p/-i8p8, vol. 2, page 2420. 



THE INTRODUCTION OF MANUAL TRAINING INTO THE PUBLIC 
SCHOOLS OF NEW YORK CITY 

In 1885, "the question had arisen whether the manual training method of 
instruction should be made part of the course of study in the Common Schools 
of the City of New York." A special committee of the Board of Education was 
appointed to institute inquiries and to report upon the value and practicability 
of such a step. The report was in every respect favorable, and as a consequence 
a new course of study was adopted in October, 1887, which included "modeling 
in clay, construction work in paper, pasteboard and other suitable materials, and 
drawing to scale for boys and girls ; carpenter work or the use of wood-working 
tools for boys, and sewing and cooking for girls." 

From Report of Dr. James P. Haney, Director of Drawing, New York City. 

On February 1, 1888, eleven schools in all, 6 grammar and 5 primary, 
known as Manual Training Schools, entered upon the work of the new course 
of study. The following year, 1889, brought with it an increase of nine schools, 
5 grammar and 4 primary, and for each succeeding year up to 1897 two schools 
per year were added. 

By the fall of 1897, the value of this new form of work had been so clearly 
demonstrated that manual training became part of the course of study of every 
school in the then city of New York. With the consolidation of the city and 
adjacent boroughs into Greater New York, came the question, "Shall the manual 
subjects be extended to the newly acquired boroughs?" This was answered in 
the affirmative, and the year 1903 found the five boroughs — Manhattan, Bronx, 
Brooklyn, Queens and Richmond — in possession of the same liberal course of 
study. 



Q 







FIRST YEAR 

Grades I A and IB 

The work of this first year is limited to Coarse Cords or other 
heavy material, and the exercises are large and free 



BELOW ARE OUTLINED SOME OF THE ADVANTAGES CORD WORK POSSESSES 
FOR USE IN LOWER GRADES. 

The cord may be easily handled because of its size. 

It makes possible large, free movements. 

It does not tax the eyes. 

It develops muscular skill and deftness in handhng. 

It may be used to develop ambidexterity. 

It appeals to both boys and girls. 

References. Walker, ''Varied Occupations in String Work," pages 2, 3. 
Tadd, "New Methods in Education," pages 47, 48. 



GRADE lA 

Course of Study 

CORD WORK 

SYLLABUS. 

Materials. Cable and seine cord, round and flat laces. 

Exercises. Knotting: single, double and triple knots; cinch knot, 
slip knot; single chain-stitch. 

Applications. Whip, doll's curtains, chains for various purposes 
(whistle, fan, key, etc.), horse-reins, skipping rope and 
other articles. 

Time Allowed. One-half hour, once a week. 



WHIP 

CAT-O'-NINE TAILS* 

This problem has been planned as ''community" work. Each 
child in a group of nine contributes one lash. In assembling the whip, 
each child is again called upon to do his share in completing the model. 



*See end of grade. 



DIAGRAMS OF WHIP 

Single, Double and Triple Knots 










Single Knot 



Double Knot 





Triple Knot 



Finish at lower end of handle 



WHIP 

Exercises. Single, double and triple knots ; binding. 

Materials. 9 pieces of seine cord* 22" long (lashes). 

1 piece of seine cord about 4 yds. long (binding for handle). 
5 pieces of round reed* No. 3, 9" long (handle). 
Small amount of thread to match the color of the cord. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Seine Cord — 22" long (lashes). 

Bind the cord around a board (cut to length), chair back or any 
other stiff support which measures 22". Cut the cords at both ends. 
Bind the bundle at the center. 
Seine Cord — 4 yds. long (binding). 

Measure 1 yd. on the cord and then lap it back and forth 3 times. 
Cut. Knot the ends of the cords zvith single knots and roll the cord 
into a ball. Repeat for as many as needed. 
Round Reed No. 3 — 9" long (handle). 

Place together even the ends of 5 pieces of round reed. Measure 
up 9" from the end and cut these with heavy shears. Soak the reeds 
to straighten them. Cut as many more as needed in a similar way. 

Directions. Take one of the strands and hold an end in each hand (swing). 

Bring the two ends together and hold them in the right hand (swing 

closed). Grasp the swing at the bottom with the left hand and let the 

ends go (swing upside down). The cord is now in position for the 

' trying of a single knot at the center. 

Single Knot. — With the right hand take the piece of cord hanging 
down to the right, make a round ring of it, by turning it to the left 
and crossing it up over the other cord. Hold the crossed parts under 
the thumb of the left hand (loop, o, ring, round window). Pull the 
end of the cord thru the loop and tighten the knot by holding the two 
ends up in the air with the right hand, and pressing the knot down 
into the center with the fingers of the left hand. This should make the 
knot form in the center of the strand. (Test to see that the ends are 
even. Loosen and shift the knot if necessary.) Then pull hard on the 
two ends of the cord. 

Make a single knot at one end of the cord. (This requires more 
dexterity.) Hold the cord in the left hand, with an end of about 2" 
projecting to the right. Bind this short end around the first finger of 
the left hand to form a ring. Slip off the ring, draw the end thru and 
tighten the knot by pulling upward from underneath. 

Double Knot. — Hold the knotted end of the cord in the right hand. 
With the left hand turned upside down, grasp the cord about 3'' below 
the center knot. Let the upper end drop. The cord is now in position 
for the making of a double knot. Form the ring as before, but pass the 
cord thru the ring twice. Tighten the knot by pushing it over close to 
the fingers of the left hand and then pulling on the two ends. (Some- 
times the two bindings of the knot need to be pushed together.) 



*See end of grade. 



WHIP (Continued) 

Triple Knot. — An equal distance below the double knot, and in 
like manner, make a triple knot. Form the ring, draw the end of the 
cord thru three iiuie?,, and pull tight. Adjust the knot by pulling it up- 
ward from underneath or pulling it downward. Cut the cord a little less 
than y^" below the knot and fray the ends to form a tassel. 

Prepare the other eight lashes in the same way. 

Binding of Lashes. With the left hand hold the nine lashes together with 
the end single knots at the top, and the center single knots on a line. 
Bind with thread just helow the upper single knots. Cut the cords 
close above the binding. The lashes are now ready to be put in the 
handle. 

Handle. — Place together the 5 pieces of reed and tie with thread in three 
or more places leaving the reeds open at one end. Slip the bound end of 
the lashes down into the open end for about 1^". Adjust the reeds 
evenly around the outside and tie the bound lashes and reeds tightly 
together. Lay one end of the binding cord along the reeds parallel to the 
bound lashes, with the short end facing down the handle. Cut off the 
knot. Tie the cord firmly to the reeds near the upper end and again to 
the lashes just beyond the ends of the reeds. 

Binding of Handle. Holding the handle horizontally in the hand, with the 
reeds pointing to the right, take the long binding cord in the right hand 
and wind it firmly around the handle, keeping the bindings close to- 
gether. (The winding may be done, either by holding the handle sta- 
tionary in the left hand, and binding the long cord around it with the 
right, or by holding the long cord stationary in the left hand, and turn- 
ing the handle around with the right.) 

Lower End of Handle. When the lower end of the handle has been reached, 
cut the reeds even, loosen the last binding, pass the end of the cord 
up thru this {away from the handle), pull tight, and wind the cord 
spirally back up the handle. (Long spiral lines will be found more 
graceful than short ones.) 

Fastening. At the top, cut the cord V beyond the reeds, turn it back and 
force it down between the reeds with the closed points of the scissors. 

jS[oTE. — The lashes of the Whip should measure about 14" in length after being bound in 
the handle. 
Nine lashes have been chosen because they suggest a cat-o'-;n'n^-tail whip. 

References. Walker, "Varied Occupations in String Work," pages 5, 7. 
Hasluck, "Knotting and Splicing," page 15. 
Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," pages 12, 13, 15. 

At the beginning of the work, divide the children into groups of nine (cat-o'-wm^- 
tails), and have those within the group compare the spacing of the knots with each other, 
or with a model piece, so that the results may be fairly uniform. 

The work of assembling the Whip may be divided as follows among the nine children 
forming each group : — 

First Child — Collects all of the nine lashes which are being held in readiness by the other 
children, single-knot end up. These he adjusts as evenly as possible and holds 
together as one mass. 



WHIP (Continued) 

Second Child— Breaks a piece of thread the color of the lashes and binds them close below 
the single knots at the end. 

Third Child — Takes a pair of scissors and cuts off the ends just above the binding (the 
lashes are now ready). 

fourth Child — Counts out five pieces of reed and holds them horizontally. 

fifth Child — Breaks three or four pieces of thread, and binds the reeds in several places, 
leaving them open at one end. 

Sixth Child — Slips the bound end of the lashes down into the open ends of the reeds for a 
distance of IH" and holds them firmly while the 

Seventh Child — Binds them to the reeds. 

Eighth Child — Holds the handle horizontally, and the 

Ninth Child — After laying the end of the binding cord against the reeds and tying it both 
at the end of the reeds and beyond the end on the lashes, binds the cord tightly 
around the handle. When the lower end is reached, the last binding is loosened, 
the end of the cord slipped up through it, and pulled tight, and the cord bound 
spirally up the handle. The cord should then be cut 1" beyond the top, and 
forced down under the bindings with a pair of closed scissors. 

This last part may be done by the teacher. 



CURTAIN 

This problem, as well as the Whip preceding it, is intended to 
be made by a group. Each child contributes one strand, and each 
assists in completing the model. 

The Netted Curtain following this may be substituted for it. 
It is more difificult however. 



DIAGRAMS OF CURTAIN 
Cinch and Slip Knots 



Cinch Knot. 




Slip Knot. 








CURTAIN 

Exercises. Single, double and triple knots; slip knot or cinch knot. 

Materials. 12 pieces of cable cord* 22" long, 2 colors (strands). 
2 pieces of cable cord, 6" long (tie-bands) . 

1 piece of round reed No. 5 — 5" long (rod). 

2 beads, dried peas, sealing-wax knobs or glass thumb tacks (ends of 
rod). 

Preparation of Materials. 

Cable Cord — 22" long (strands). See as for Seine Cord under Whip. 
Cable Cord — 6" long (tie-bands). 

Measure twice the length (12"), lap the cord back and forth, cut 
thru the cord at both ends and in the center. 
Round Reed No. 5 — 5" long (rod). 

Place together even, several pieces of round reed. Measure up 5" 
from the end, and cut these with heavy shears. Soak the reeds to 
straighten them. 

Directions. Prepare each one of the 12 strands in turn, as for the lash for 
the Whip, except that the single knot at the end of the cord should be 
ys" in, and the end of the cord frayed (tassel). The strands are now 
ready to be put on the rod. This may be done with a slip knot or with 
a cinch knot. 

Slip Knot. — Hold the single-knot end of the cord in the left hand. 
With the right hand form a ring around the first finger of the left 
hand, slip it off, and draw the cord thru the ring far enough to make 
a small loop. Hold this firmly in the right hand and pull the short 
end tight with the left. A slip knot should be formed about 1^" from 
the short end. Pass the rod thru the loop just made and draw the knot 
tight to fit the ro^d by pulling on the long end. 

Cinch Knot. Turn the single-knot end of the cord over about 2". 
Place the loop behind the rod, turn the loop down, and draw the two 
ends of the cord thru. Pull tight and push the parts of the knot 
together. 
Finish of Curtain. Ends of Rod. When the 12 strands have been put 
on the rod and arranged evenly, finish ends of rod with beads (shaving 
reed if too large, or binding with thread if too small for the size of 
the bead), with dried peas, with sealing wax or other knob effects. 
Tie-Bands. Make single knots on ends of tie-bands }i" in and fray. Double 
the tie-bands. Separate curtain at center into two groups of six strands 
each. Place the bands around these and fasten with cinch knots, 
ends facing outward Ease the strands at the center to give a more 
graceful Hne to the curtain. 
i\ToTE— The Curtain, when finisht, should be about 12" long. 

Slip Knot, — so called because the long cord can be made to slip back and forth to 

enlarge or make the loop smaller. 

Cinch Knot, — a knot much used in the Western United States by the cowboys and 

soldiers to fasten the girth strap of their saddle. 

Reference. Hasluck, "Knotting and Splicing" — 

Slip knot (running knot), page 24. Cinch knot (lark's head), page 45. 
Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," page 17. 

In assembling the Curtain, the rod may be held horizontally by the teacher, and each 
child permitted to slip on the rod the strand he has made, as the one or the other of two 
colors is called by the children. The final work of preparing the tie-bands, shaping the 
ends of the reeds and fixing on the knobs may be shared by some of the more expert. 

'•'See end of grade. 



NETTED CURTAIN 

This model may be substituted for the Curtain which precedes 
it, but the exercise of meshing is more difficult. 



DIAGRAMS OF NETTED CURTAIN 
Cinch and Single Knots 





First Row. 



Second Row, dividing groups. 




Third Row, reuniting original strands. 



Finish for ends of reed. 



NETTED CURTAIN 



Exercises. Cinch knot, and netting (single knots to produce meshes). 

Materials. 6 pieces of seine cord, 1 yd. long, 2 colors {strands). 
1 piece of flat reed*, ^" width, 4>^" long {rod). 

Preparation of Materials.^ 

Seine Cord — 1 yd. long {strands). 

Drive 2 heavy nails into a strip of board, setting them 1 yd. apart, 
or brace two chairs so that the backs are 1 yd. apart, or choose any 
other stationary intervals in the class room of 1 yd. (measure around 
desks, etc.), and bind the cord around these. Cut the cords at both ends. 

Flat Reed—Y^" width— 4>4" long {rod). 

See as for Round Reed under Curtain, making the measurement 
4^". Cut off any loose fibrous parts. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work, make loose single knots on the 
ends of the cord to prevent fraying.) 

Take in turn each one of the 6 pieces of cord, fold it in half, and 
put it on the reed with a cinch knot. (See under Curtain.) Draw 
the knots tight and space them about y%" apart on the rod. 

Meshing. First Row. Take the two cords coming from the cinch 
knot at the left hand end, keep them together, pull both straight toward 
you, and tie a single knot 9/3" down from the rods. Draw this tight. 
Make similar knots on the other 5 strands, being careful to keep them 
all on a line. 

Second Row. Throw back out of the way the extreme left hand 
strand. Take the remaining strand of that group and the adjoining 
one from the next group, hold these two together and make a single 
knot ^" down from the upper knot. Repeat this across the curtain. 

(This should leave one strand free on the extreme right.) 

Third Row. Take the original two strands of the same color (as 
they came from the cinch knot above), and knot these together ^" 
down from the second row of knots. Continue this across the curtain. 
The knots should be on a straight line throughout. 

Finish of Curtain. Knot the strands below the netted portion with single, 
double or triple knots in some simple way and finish at the bottom 
with a tassel of not more than 54 " in length. 

Ends of Rod. Shape ends of reed by cutting off the corners, or bluntly 
pointing the reed. 

Note — The Netted Curtain when finisht should be about 11" long. 

Netting, — is a collection of meshes formed by the crossing of strands, with open 
spaces between. 

References. Walker, ''Varied Occupations in String Work," page 11. 

Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," pages 19, 21. 



'See end of grade. 



NECK CHAIN 



DIAGRAMS OF NECK CHAIN 
Single Chain-Stitch 



Slip Knot 







Single Chain-Stiteh 







NECK CHAIN 

Exercises. Slip knot, single chain-stitch, and single knot with 2 cords as one. 

Materials. 1 piece of seine cord, 3j^ yds. long. 

1 trinket (whistle, fan, medal, locket, key, etc.) 

Preparation of Material. 

Seine Cord — 3}i yds. long. 

Select three or four desks, one behind the other, around which 
the cord, when wound, will measure 3^ yds. or a little over. Bind 
the cord around these and cut at one end. Or measure off a length 
of 1 yd. 3" and lap it back and forth twice, and cut. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work, make loose single knots on the 
ends of the cord to prevent fraying.) 

Form a slip knot 4" from one end of the cord. Catch the knotted 
end of the cord in the crack of the desk. Hold the slip knot portion 
between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, long end under- 
neath. With the right hand draw the cord partially up thru the loop. 
Grip this new loop firmly and pull tight in a line straight toward you. 
Proceed, pulHng the cord partially up thru the loop each time and 
pulling tight in a line straight toward you. The long end must always 
he kept on the same side to prevent tzvisting. Chain-stitch to within 
4" of the other end of the cord. 

Fastening. Fasten by puUing the end all the way thru the last loop. 

Finish of Chain. Undo the end knots, slip the trinket on one of the cords, 
place the two chain-stitch parts together even, hold the two cords 
as one, and tie a single knot about ^" from the chain-stitch part. Cut 
the ends of the cord about V^" below the knot and fray. 
(If the trinket has a ring too small to slip over the cord, unite the ends 
of the chain as above, and then tie the trinket on with a separate cord 
made by untwisting a piece of the heavier cord. Pass the cord thru 
the ring of the trinket, then up thru the crotch of the chain and tie 
the 2 ends together as one, with a single knot. Cut the ends short.) 

Note — The body part of the Chain should measure 23" before the ends are united. 

This exercise is a crocheting with the fingers. It resembles that done with a crochet 
needle or by the single-thread sewing machine. (Wilcox and Gibbs.) 

References. Walker, "Varied Occupations in String Work," page 30. 
Hasluck, "Knoiting and Splicing," pages 51, 52. 
Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," page 20. 
Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers," pages 8, 9. 

Have the children practice this stitch first with a piece of seine cord 1 yard long. 



SKIPPING ROPE AND HORSE REINS 

These two models may be given to those children who finish first, 
or who may have been left back from the term before. They are more 
elaborate applications of the single chain-stitch. 



SKIPPING ROPE 



Exercises. Single chain-stitch, and single or double knots. 

Materials, 1 piece of cable cord 8 yds. long. 

2 handles (package handles, round reeds or chalk holders). 

Preparation of Materials. 

Cable Cord — 8 yds. long. 

Measure off a length of 1 yd. on the cord and lap it back and forth 
seven times. Cut. 
Round Reed No. 3 — Syi" long (handles). 

See as for Round Reed under Whip, making the measurement 3^". 

Directions. (Before commencing the work, make loose single knots on the 
ends of the cord to prevent fraying.) 

Start the chain-stitch with a slip knot 8" from one end of the cord. 
Chainstitch to within 8" of the other end of the cord. (Allow a little 
more cord at the end if it is desired to make the handle out of the cord 
itself.) 

Handles. The handles may be made in different ways: 

a. A simple wooden package handle, with the wire taken out, is 
excellent. Undo the knot at the end of the cord, and draw the cord 
thru the handle by means of a hairpin (straightened out and bent into 
a hook at one end), or by means of a loop made of stiff twine. Knot 
the cord with a single or double knot beyond the end of the handle to 
prevent it from slipping back. Cut off the cord %" from the knot 
and fray. 

b. Another handle may be made by doubling back the end piece of 
cord and tying a single knot, both cords as one, close to the chain-stitch 
part. This gives a loop. Cut the end ^" beyond the knot and fray. 

c. A third type of handle may be worked out with reeds as a foun- 
dation. Put it together as for the Whip. 

d. A small wooden chalk holder is also good as a handle. Knot the 
end of the cord enuf times to make a good size knob, slip the ring back 
out of the way, force the knob up into the opening of the handle, and 
then pull the ring down into place. 

e. Even a clothespin may be made to serve as a handle, — ^by passing 
the cord thru the cleft part and tying it to itself over the head of the pin. 
Fasten with a nail or tack and bind around the neck and body of the 
pin with an extra piece of cord. (Not very satisfactory.) 



HORSE REINS 

Exercises. Single chain-stitch, and single knots. 

Materials. 1 piece of cable cord 14 yds. long. 
3 or more bells. 

Preparation of Material. 

Cable Cord — 14 yds. long. 

Measure off a length of 1 yd. on the cord and lap it back and 
forth thirteen times. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work, make loose single knots on the ends 
of the cord to prevent fraying.) 

Start the chain-stitch with a slip knot 4" from one end of the cord. 
Chain-stitch to within 4" of the other end of the cord. Lay the chain- 
stitch piece around the neck, having the end on the left just on a line 
with the chest. Pass the long end around under the right arm, across in 
back, and forward under the left arm far enough to let it cross the chest 
as a band. Where this band touches the end hanging down to the left, 
tie the end into one of the links, i. e., pass the end thru the slink and then 
tie it to itself with a single knot, up close to the chain-stitch part. Make 
a single knot on the cord below this to prevent further undoing. Cut 
the cord >^" beyond the last knot and fray. Where the end of the band 
touches the reins to the right, tie it thru a link in the same way, cut 
and fray. 

Bells. Fasten the bells at intervals on the chest strap. Use a fine piece of 
cord obtained by untwisting a heavier piece. Thread this thru the ring 
on the bell, then thru the upper half of one of the links, and tie the two 
ends, as one, with a single knot. Force this up close to the chain-stitch 
and cut the ends short. 

Note — The length of the chest strap should be about 6", and the piece which goes around 
the neck 23". 

Reference. Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers," pages lo, ii. 



MATERIALS* 



CAT-0 -NINE TAILS 

"Cat-o'-nine Tails" is the name given to a whip which consists of 9 lashes of 
knotted rope, fastened to a handle. 

Use. — Formerly used as an instrument of punishment in both army and navy. 

Derivation of the Name. — It came from the name of a certain type of freight 
vessel called a "cat." (This boat was pointed at both ends and broad 
in the middle.) Worn-out pieces of rope, known as ''cat-ropes," were 
crudely bound together to form a whip. These were sometimes knotted 
for purposes of greater punishment. Nine lashes gradually came to 
be used, hence the name cat-o' -nine-tails arose. 

References. Webster's Dictionary. 

See under Cat (cat-o'-nine tails, also tip-cat, the game). 
International Encyclopedic Dictionary. 
See under Cat-0' -Nine -Tails. 

SEINE CORD 

Seine Cord is a firmly twisted cotton cord used in the making of "seines" or fish- 
nets, hence its name. 

Commercial Form. Put up in skeins weighing 1 to 2 lbs. 
Place of Purchase. 

M.J. Tobin, 318 Broadway, New York City. 

Unbleached 31c. a lb. 

Red 34c. a lb. 

Milton Bradley Co. , 73 Fifth Avenue, New York City. 

White 45c. a lb. 

Reference. Webster's Dictionary. 
See under Seine. 

CABLE CORD 

Cable Cord is a soft cotton cord which receives its name from its resemblance 
to a cable. 

Commercial Form. Put up in skeins weighing 1 to 2 lbs. 
Place of Purchase. 

M.J. Tobin, 318 Broadway, New York City. 

Assorted Colors 34c. a lb. 

Reference. Webster's Dictionary. 

See under Cable (for a definition of a cable). 

REED 

Reed is a long, slender, flexible, woody strip, tan in color, and either round or 
flat. Its length varies up to about 20 feet, and its diameter to about 1 inch. 

From what obtained. 
Rattan Cane. 
What it is. 
A vine or creeper. 

Length— from 300-600 ft. or more. 
Diameter — up to about 1 inch. 
Devoid of leaves except at the growing end. 
Outside smooth and shiny. 

* Prices are subject to change. Postage or expressage extra. 



MATERIALS* (Continued) 

Where found. 

1. In the jungles of Borneo, Java, Sumatra and Malay Peninsula 

mainly. 

2. Also in India and Indo China. 
Requires tropical climate (moisture and heat). 

How collected. 

Natives force their way into the jungle, grasp pieces within reach, 
pull these free of the tangle, cut them in lengths varying up to about 
20 feet, tie them together and carry them out on their shoulders. 

How prepared for use. 

1. Dressed (cleaned and all rufness removed). 

2. Outside shiny covering split off (long narrow strips) = rattan 
of commerce. 

3. Pithy core left = round reed of commerce. 

4. Pithy core split lengthwise = flat reed of commerce. 
Uses. 

Native. 

Rattan Cane — for suspension bridges, ropes, etc. 
Foreign. 

Rattan — for caning chairs. 

Reed, round or flat — for furniture, baskets, etc. 
How shipt. 

Strips bent back and forth in loops, or around in a circle, and tied. 
Commercial Form. Both round and flat, put up in 1 lb. or larger bundles. 
Place of Purchase. 

Milton Bradley Co., 73 Fifth Avenue, New York City 

Round, No. o (very tine) $i.oo a lb. 

No. I 70C. a lb. 

No. 2 (medium) 65c. a lb. 

No. 3 ) . 55c. a lb. 

No. 4 (coarse) 50c. a lb. 

No. 5 50c. a lb. 

No. 6 (heavy) 50c. a lb. 

Flat, 3/16" wide 45c. a lb. 

S/16" wide 45c. a lb. 

J. L. Hamraett Co., Bush Terminal, Brooklyn. N Y. 

Round, No. 00 to No. 8. $1.00 to 30c. a lb. 

Flat, ^" wide 43c. a lb. 

Reference. Report No. 9, Department of Agriculture— Dodge, ''Useful Fiber 
Plants of the World.'' 

See under Calamus rotang (Rattan Cane). 

LARGE GLASS BEADS, DRIED PEAS, ETC. 
Place of Purchase. 

Milton Bradley Co., 78 Fifth Avenue, New York City. 



* Prices are subject to change. Postage or expressage extra. 



GRADE IB 

Course of Study 
cord work 

syllabus. 
Materials. Cable and seine cord, round and flat laces. 

Exercises. Knotting: see-saw knot; single looping; corkscrew bar; 
double chain-stitch; single knots in spiral form. 

Applications. Chain, napkin ring, curtain loop, fob, whip and other 
articles. 

Time Allowed. One-half hour, once a week. 



SEE-SAW KNOT CHAIN 



DIAGRAMS OF SEE-SAW KNOT CHAIN 
Single Looping 





First Cord 





Second cord 





Finish of chain. 



SEE-SAW KNOT CHAIN 

Exercises. See-saw knot (single looping), single knot and binding. 

Materials. 2 pieces of cable cord*, each 2^4 yds. long, of different colors. 
1 trinket. 

Preparation of Material. 

Cable Cord — 2^ yds. long. 

Drive 2 heavy nails into a strip of board, setting them 1^ yds. 
apart, or brace two chairs so that the backs are lys yds. apart, or choose 
any other stationary intervals in the class room of 1^ yds. (measure 
around desks, etc.) and bind the cord around these. Cut the cords 
at one end. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work, make loose single knots on the ends 
of the cords to prevent fraying.) 

Take the 2 pieces of cord, place them together even at one end, and 
make a single knot about 4" down from the end. (Do not pull this knot 
too tight as it has to be taken out later.) Catch the knot in the crack 
of the desk, and shorten each end for convenience in handling by rolling 
it up into a soft ball. This may be done by winding the cord around the 
fingers a number of times, then slipping off the loops, holding them flat 
and binding around them at the center to within about 14" of the top. 
Double the cord just beyond, the bindings, force it under some of the 
bindings and pull tight. This forms a, slip knot, which may be easily 
undone by a pull on the cord when it needs to be lengthened. 

Another method of fastening the last cord after binding around at 
the center is to cross the cord on itself to form a loop, and to slip this 
loop over the soft ball. The disadvantage of this method is that the 
children are apt to pull the cord off the ball without undoing it, and 
thereby to get a knot in the cord. 

See-Saw Knot. Hold the cord to the left taut in the left hand. 
Cross the cord to the right over it at right angles, pass it around under- 
neath and up thru the loop to the right. Still holding the left hand 
strand tight, pull the loop just formed up close to the single knot, keep- 
ing the cord out at right angles. Now hold the cord to the right taut 
in the right hand, and cross the cord to the left over it, around, and up 
thru the loop on the left. Pull this loop tight, and up close to the first 
one — again keeping the cord out at right angles. So continue alter- 
nating, using first the strand on the right, tying it around the left 
hand strand, and then the strand on the left, tying it around the right 
hand strand. Work until the body part is 24" long. 

Finish of Chain. Undo the single knot put in at the beginning, slip the 
trinket on one or both cords of one-half of the chain, hold the two parts 
of the chain together even, take one of the four cords and bind it two 
or three times around the other three. Fasten by passing the end 
down under the bindings and pulling very tight. Make a single knot 
on one of the cord ends >4" down from the binding, then a single knot 
on another cord ^" down, then a third Y^" down, and the fourth 1" 
down. Cut all tassels y%" . 

(If the trinket has a ring too small to slip over the two cords, unite 
the chain as above, and then tie the trinket on with a separate cord 
made by untwisting a piece of the heavier cord. Pass the cord thru the 
ring of the trinket, then up thru the crotch of the chain and tie the 2 
ends together as one, with a single knot. Cut the ends short.) 

Note — The body part of the Chain should measure 24" before the ends are united. 

This exercise affords an opportunity for ambi-dextrous work. Both right and left 
hand should be used equally. 

References. Walker, "Varied Occupations in String Work'' See cover of book. 
Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," page 27. 

Have the children practice the see-saiv knot first with two pieces of cable cord of 
different colors, each 22" long. 

*For materials, see end of Grade lA, 



NAPKIN RING 



DIAGRAMS OF NAPKIN RING 



Single Looping 







Finish of Ring. 



NAPKIN RING 

Exercises. Single looping, and single knots. 

Material. 1 piece of seine cord* 2^ yds. long. 

Preparation of Material. 

Seine Cord — 2^4 yds. long. 

See under See-Saw Knot Chain. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work, make loose single knots on the ends 
of the cord to prevent fraying.) 

Hold the cord about 2^" from the end, between the thumb and first 
finger of the left hand, end pointing away from you. Bind the cord 
twice around the fingers toward you, making a ring large enough to pass 
a rolled napkin thru (about 1^4" in diameter). Holding the cord under 
the thumb, pass the end down thru the ring and out over itself, thus 
forming a loop. Pull the loop tight downward and over toward the left. 
Form the next loop, by passing the end down thru the ring, and out over 
itself. Pull tight downward and toward the left, forming the loop close 
against the first one. Continue this, forming loops close together and 
even at the edge. 

Finish of the Napkin Ring. When the foundation has been entirely covered, 
tie the two ends of cord together twice, one around the other in a 
square form (see diagram). Then tie a single knot on each piece of 
cord ^" from the center knots, cut the cord ys" beyond these knots 
and fray. 
Note — The Ring should have an inner diameter of about i^" when finisht. 

Reference. Jessup and Logue, ''The Handicraft Book," page 23. 

Have the children practice looping first over a pencil, a piece of flat reed or a splint, 
using a piece of seine cord 22" long. 



♦ For materials, see end of Grade lA. 



CORKSCREW BAR FOB 




DIAGRAMS OF CORKSCREW BAR FOB 
Single Looping 



? 







? 




CORKSCREW BAR FOB 

Exercises. Single IcwDping in a spiral, and binding. 

Materials. 1 piece of seine cord, white, 8" long (foundation). 

1 piece of seine cord, red, Ij^ yds. long (working strand). 

Preparation of Material. 

Seine Cord — white, 8" long (foundation) and 
Seine Cord — red, I'jA yds. long (working strand). 

Drive 2 heavy nails into a board 8" apart, and another two % yd. 
apart. Bind the cords, red or white, around these. Cut the 8" ones in 
two places, and the % yd. ones in one place. The back of a chair, 
distance around a desk, or two chairs fastened securely a certain dis- 
tance apart would also answer if they gave the requisite measurements. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work, make loose single knots on the ends 
of the cord to prevent fraying.) 

Double the short cord in half and lay it on the desk. Place the 
long cord under the short cord, having an end of about 1^" to the 
right and the re^.t of the cord to the left. Roll up the long end into a 
soft ball, as under See-saw Knot Chain. Take the long piece of cord in 
the right hand and the short piece in the left, and tie the long piece 
around the short 2" down from the top. (This brings the short end to the 
left.) Slip the loop down into the crack of the desk and hold it in place 
by running a pencil thru it underneath at right angles to the crack.) 
Cut off the knot on the short end and hold the latter in with the founda- 
tion cords, looping over them with the long cord on the right (pass the 
cord over on top, around underneath and out over itself). Draw the 
loop tight, pulling it out straight to the right. Twist the foundation 
cords around to the right a little, and form a second loop in the same 
way as the first, pulling it tight toward the right. Again twisting the 
foundation cords around to the right a little, continue as before. As the 
work progresses, a spiral line will form. (The foundation cords may 
also be turned to the left a little each time, instead of to the right. This 
reverses the direction of the spiral.) 

Finish of Fob. Work the body part down for 2^", then bind twice, and slip 
the end down under both bindings. Pull tight, cut off all ends 1%" in 
length and fray. Or the ends may be finished by tying single knots l%" 
below, and cutting and fraying a tassel >^" deep. 

References. Walker, "Varied Occupations in String Work," page 64. 
Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book" page 24. 



CURTAIN LOOP 



DIAGRAMS OF CURTAIN LOOP 
Double Chain-Stitch 



Slip Knot 






Double Chain-Stitch 







Fastening 



CURTAIN LOOP 

Exercises. Slip knot, double chain-stitch, and single knot. 

Material. 1 piece of cable cord 3 yds. long. 

Preparation of Material. 

Cable Cord — 3 yds. long. 

Measure off a length of 1 yd. on the cord and lap it back and forth 
twice. Cut. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work, make single knots on the ends 
of the cord to, prevent fraying.) 

Pull a single knot on one end of the cord very tight, and cut the 
tassel close. Using the other end of the cord, form a slip knot (see 
under Curtain, lA) about >4^' from the end. Adjust the loop so that 
it is just large enuf to permit the knot which was tightened on the 
other end of the cord to be squeezed thru. Hold the slip knot horizon- 
tally in the left hand, loop facing toward the right. Pass the long end 
of the cord up thru the loop first formed. Keep the work flat in the 
left hand and draw the end of the cord straight away from you until 
a loop is formed toward you of the same size as the first loop. Place 
the thumb of the left hand over the place where these two loops inter- 
sect. Still holding the work flat in the left hand, pass the end of the cord 
up thru the loop just formed. Draw the cord straight toward you 
until a loop is formed away from you of the same size as the other 
two loops. Proceed in this manner, forming loops on opposite sides 
by passing the cord always up thru the loops, and by alternately pulling 
the cord straight toward you and away from you. 

Finish of Curtain Loop. When the body part of the Curtain Loop measures 
about 14", fasten by passing the end down thru the last loop and pulling 
tight. This makes a finish similar to the slip knot at the beginning. 
Finish each end with a single knot }4" from the double chain-stitch, 
cut the cord ys" beyond the knots and fray. 

Note — The Curtain Loop should measure about 15^2" when finisht. 
Reference. Hasluck, "Knotting and Splicing/' page 57. 

Have the children practice this stitch first with a piece of cable cord 22" long. 



SPIRAL FOB OR WHIP 



DIAGRAMS OF SPIRAL FOB OR WHIP 
Single Knots 



^^^V^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 





Tying of first pair. 




Tying of second pair. 



Finish of fob or whip 



SPIRAL FOB OR WHIP 

Exercises. Single knots made at right angles to give a spiral effect; single knot 
(cord doubled), and binding. 

Materials. 

Fob — 1 piece of cable cord 1^ yds. long {strand with loop). 
1 piece of cable cord 1 yd. long, of a different color. 
1 pin. 

Whip — 1 piece of cable cord 3^4 yds. long {strand with loop). 
1 piece of cable cord 3 yds. long, of a different color. 
1 pin. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Fob — Cable Cord — 1^ yds. long {strand with loop) and 
Cable Cord — 1 yd. long. 

Drive 2 heavy nails into a strip of board 22^^" apart, and another 
two 1 yd. apart. Bind the cords around these. Cut the 22^" ones in 
one place, and the 1 yd. ones in two places. The back of a chair, dis- 
tance around a desk, or two chairs fastened securely a certain distance 
apart would answer if they gave the requisite measurements. 
Whip — Cable Cord — 3^ yds. long {strand with loop) and 
Cable Cord — 3 yds. long. 
See under Neck Chain, lA. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work, make loose single knots on the ends 
of the cords to prevent fraying.) 

FOB. — Take the longer strand, fold it in half, and make a single knot 2^" 
down from the loop end, keeping the two cords together as one. Pull 
the knot very tight. Either slip the loop down into the crack of the desk, 
and fasten with a pencil at right angles underneath, or pin the loop to the 
knee by running the pin in and out of the dress material, over one piece 
of the cord and then in and out of the dress material again. (This 
allows the loop to sHp freely around the pin.) Separate the two ends, 
placing one away from you, and one toward you. Take the second 
piece of cord, fold it in half to find the center, open the cord out, and 
lay it over the other cord at right angles, center to center. The cords 
are now ready for tying. 

First Pair. — (Roll up into soft balls the ends toward you and away 
from you. See under See-sazv Knot Chain.) 

Take the cord toward you in the right hand and the cord away 
from you in the left. Pidl upward against the pin. Bring the two 
hands together and tie the cord in the right hand around the one in the 
left. (The hands have now changed places, the right being away from 
you and the left toward you.) Pull the knot tight, by continuing to pull 
upward against the pin, and at the same time by drawing the cords 
evenly in a horizontal position, one toward you, and one away from 
you. The knot should form over the cord running from right to left, 
and exactly in the center. 

Second Pair. — (Roll up into soft balls the ends to the right and 
left. See under See-saw Knot Chain.) 



SPIRAL FOB OR WHIP (Continued) 

Cross the hands, with the left hand on top. Pick up the cords, the 
right one in the left hand, the left one in the right hand. Pull upward 
against the pin. Bring the two hands together and tie the cord which 
is in the right hand around the one in the left. (The hands have now 
changed places.) Pull the knot tight, by continuing to pull upward 
against the pin, and at the same time by drawing the cords evenly in a 
horizontal position, one toward the right and one toward the left. The 
knot should form directly over the first knot, and at right angles to it. 
Continue to build up the chain by alternately knotting the first pair of 
cords and then the second pair, as described above. The manner of 
handling the cords or of tying the knots must never be altered, or the 
spiral effect will be lost. 

Finish of the Fob. Work the body part 2%" in length. Take one of the 
cords similar in color to the loop at the first end and bind twice around 
the other three cords. Pass the cord down under the bindings, pull tight, 
cut the cords even 1^" in length, and fray. 

WHIP — Take the longer strand, fold it in half, and make a single knot 3" down 
from the loop end, keeping the two cords together as one. Pull the 
knot very tight. Proceed as for the Spiral Fob. 

Finish of the Whip. Work the body part 9" in length. Take one of the 
cords similar in color to the loop at the first end and bind twice around 
the other three cords. Pass the cord down under the bindings, pull 
tight, cut the lashes even, and knot them with single, double or triple 
knots as desired. 

Note — The lashes should measure about i8" in length wlten finisht. 

This makes a type of Whip^ (with loop and pliable body) much in use among the 
cowboys of the West, and in Mexico. The Whip is worn on the wrist by means 
of the loop. When needed, it is slung around in a circle above the head, and then 
brot down, cutting the horse underneath. 

References. Walker, "Varied Occupations in String Work," pages 43, 44, 45. 
Jessup and Logue, ''The Handicraft Book," page 28. 
Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers," page 13. 

Have the children practice this exercise first with 2 pieces of cord, 24" and 18" respectively. 



MATERIALS 
See end of Grade 1A for seine cord and CABLE coRD. 



SECOND YEAR 

Grades 2A and 2B 

The work of the second year calls for finer materials, and hence for 
FINER MUSCULAR MOVEMENTS. Macraoic Cord and Raffia are mainly 
used as they admit of being worked up into varied models neces- 
sitating dextrous handling. 

THE TRANSITION IS NOT TOO ABRUPT FROM THE 
COARSE CORDS OF GRADES lA AND IB. THE CHILDREN 
HAVE GAINED A GRASP OF MANY EXERCISES IN TYING 
AND LOOPING. THESE EXERCISES ARE USED AGAIN IN 
GRADES 2A AND 2B, THO WITH VERY DIFFERENT 
EFFECT. 



GRADE 2A 

Course of Study 
cord, raffia and lacer work 

SYLLABUS. 

Materials, Macrame cord, round and flat laces, raffia, flat reed 
or splints, straw-board forms, small brass rings and 
tapestry needles. 

Exercises. Knotting: looping; weaving over reed or splint; am- 

bulance or reef knot; bannister bar; Solomon's knot. 

Applications, Chains, napkin ring, baby's rattle, bookmark, umbrella, 
picture frame, box, bag, girdle and other articles. 

Time Allowed. One half hour, once a week. 



LOOPING CHAIN 

If desired, the Napkin Ring or Baby's Rattle following this 
may be taken first. The stiffer foundations in the latter make the 
looping easier, but the decoration and finish are more difficult. 



DIAGRAMS OF LOOPING CHAIN 
Quadruple Looping 




First cord. 






Second cord. 



Finish of chain. 



LOOPING CHAIN 

Exercises. Single, double, triple, quadruple, etc., looping. 

Materials. 1 piece of macrame cord*, 2 yds. long (foundation). 

1 piece of macrame cord, 6^ yds. long, of a different color (working 

strand). 
1 extra piece of macrame cord, about 12" long, of a color different 

from both of the above. 

1 trinket (fan, locket, medal, key, etc.). 

2 pins. 

Preparation of Material. 

Macrame Cord — 2 yds. long (foundation). 

Drive 2 nails in a board 1 yd. apart, or find some combination of 
chair backs or distance around, a desk which will give 1 yd. Wind the 
cord around these. Cut at one end. 
Macrame Cord — 6^ yds. long (working strand). 

Measure off a length of 1 yd. on the cord and lap it back and forth 
5>4 times. Cut. 
Macrame Cord — 12" long. 

Wind the cord around a large book or other object about 12" long 
and cut thru the cord at both ends. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work make single knots on the ends of 
the cords to prevent fraying.) 

Fold the shorter cord in half to find the center and pin the loop 
to the knee. (Run the pin in and out of the dress, then over one of the 
cords of the loop, then in and out of the dress again. This allows the 
cord to move freely around the pin.) Find the center of the longer 
cord, mark it with a pin, roll up the ends into small balls for greater 
convenience in handling, and fasten them about 12" from the pin. 

(This temporary fastening may be made by winding the cord 
around the fingers a number of times, slipping off the loops, holding 
them flat and binding around them at the center to the desired distance 
from the top. Then double the cord just beyond the bindings, force it 
under some of the bindings and pull tight. This forms a slip knot, which 
may be easily undone by a pull on the cord when it needs to be length- 
ened. Another method of fastening the last cord after binding around 
at the center is to cross the cord on itself to form a loop and to slip 
this loop around the soft ball. The disadvantage of this method is that 
the children are apt to pull the cord off the ball without undoing it and 
thereby to get a knot in the cord.) 

Place the center of the long cord (markt by the pin) under the 
2 foundation cords and tie a single knot — the left hand strand around 
the right. Tighten the knot not more than }i" down from the top of 
the loop. Unpin the loop from the knee, run a pencil thru it and slip 
this down into the crack of the desk, turning the pencil at right angles 
underneath. The foundation strands must he kept taut thruout. They 
may be tied around the waist, fastened in the belt or buttonhole, or 
attacht to some part of the seat. 

*See end of grade. 



LOOPING CHAIN (Continued) 

Single Looping. Take the cord on the right with the right hand, 
cross it over the foundation cords at right angles, pass it around under- 
neath and up thru the loop to the right. Pull firmly on the cord at right 
angles until the loop tightens close up to the single knot. Take the cord 
on the left with the left hand, cross it over the foundation cords at right 
angles, pass it around underneath and up thru the loop on the left. 
Keeping the cord at right angles, draw the loop up tight close to the 
first one. Continue in this way, alternating the strands on the right 
and left, and using each hand equally in the work. (This gives ambi- 
dextrous training.) The chain should form flat. 

Double, Triple, Quadruple, etc.. Looping. Proceed as described 
above, except that loops of the desired number should be formed on 
the one side with the one hand before changing to form an equal number 
of loops on the other side with the other hand. Where a larger number 
of loopings is used, say five, six or seven, the chain becomes less flat, 
and more shell-like on the edge. 

Finish of Chain. Continue the looping until the body part of the chain 
measures 23". Then bend back one of the foundation cords, making 
a loop %" longer than the loop at the first end. Take the piece of 
macrame cord about 12" long and of a different color from either of 
those used in the chain, fold it in half to form a loop, and hold this 
against the chain, loop end facing in the direction of the foundation- 
cord loop. (This is to be used instead of a needle to draw back the 
last end of the binding cord.) Pick out the working cord which is 
lowest down on the chain and bind it tightly, row for row (like thread 
on a spool), around the two loops and other two cords, the distance 
down allowed, Y^" . When this place has been reacht, thread the end 
of the cord just used for binding thru the loop of a different color laid 
against the chain, as though it were the eye of a needle, and then grip 
the upper two ends of this same colored loop and pull them upward. 
This will draw the binding cord back up under all of the bindings. 
Pull this tight and cut off the four ends (the two at the top and the 
two at the bottom),' close to the bound part. 

To put on the Trinket. If the trinket has a split ring, force it open, slip 
the 2 loops at the ends of the chain thru it and pinch it together again. 
If the trinket has no split ring or a ring too small to use in this way, 
untwist a piece of macrame cord, take one of the fine strands, pass it 
thru the ring or some convenient opening on the trinket, pass it thru 
the two loops on the ends of the chain, bring together the two ends of 
fine cord and tie a single knot — the two cords as one — close up to the 
trinket. Cut the ends of the cord y%" from the knot. 

References. Walker, "Varied Occupations in String Work," pages 65, 97, 98. 
Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," page 24. 

Have the children practice first the various principles of looping with shorter pieces 
of macrame cord of two colors, — about 1 yd. and 3 yds. in length respectively. 



NAPKIN RING 

This model, and the Baby's Rattle following it, are similar in 
character. The children should be permitted to choose which one 
of the two they would prefer to make. 



DIAGRAMS OF NAPKIN RING 

Single, Double, Triple, Quadruple, etc.. Looping 

( Diagrams 1 — 6 reduced half -size. ) 



-I 





Triple Looping. 




Knots on short ends cut. 



Looping over ends. 



NAPKIN RING 

Exercises. Single, double, triple, quadruple, etc., looping. 

Materials. 1 piece of oak tag*, 7" long and 3 times the width desired (from 

or 1 piece of ash splint*, 13" long and ^^^-l" in width {better for 

foundation because stiff er). 
2 pieces of macrame cord, each 4^ yds. long, of different colors. 
1 pin. 

1 tapestry needle No. 20.* 
Some white thread (for binding). 

Preparation of Materials. 

Oak Tag — 7" long and 3 times the width (^", ^" or 1"). 

Cut the sheets of oak tag on the cutting machine into strips 7" 
long and either l}^", 2}i" or 3" wide. 
Ash Splint — 13" long and 3/2", H" ^^ 1" wide. 

Cut off lengths of 13" from the roll of ash splint. Place a ruler 
along one edge of each of these pieces in turn, draw a line and cut on 
this to straighten the edge. Measure in from this edge the width 
desired, draw a parallel line and cut. 
Macrame Cord — 4^ yds. long. 

Measure off a length of 1 yd. on the cord and lap it back and 
forth 33^ times. Cut. 

Directions. Oak Tag Foundation. Divide the piece of oak tag lengthwise into 
thirds with dotted lines. Turn one long edge on the first line of marking 
and crease. Fold the other long edge over it on the second line of 
marking and crease. Measure in from one end 1>^" on the two long 
sides, and starting from these points cut the long sides slightly slanting 
inward toward the end. Curve the folded oak tag around and sHp the 
shaped end into the fold of the other end, pushing it up firmly the 
full distance of 1^". This should make the ring l|^" inner diameter. 
Bind thread over the place where the ends lap and around the ring on 
the outside. 

Ash Splint Foundation. Curve the splint around twice on itself, 
until the ends lap 1^^". Bind the lapt ends firmly with white thread 
and pass the thread several times around the ring on the outside to 
prevent it from slipping open. 

Macrame Cord Covering. Before commencing the work, make 
single knots on the ends of the cord to prevent fraying.) 

Roll up each of the two pieces of macrame cord into soft balls 
(see under Looping Chain, 2A), leaving about 12" free for use. Take 
the free ends of both pieces, cross them about 1" from the knotted 
ends, and run a pin thru the 2 cords at the place of intersection. Hold 
the ash splint ring in the left hand with the outside lapt end facing 
downward. Place the crost cords on the ring, short ends up, about \" 
above the end of the lapt ash splint. Run the pin into the foundation 
and out again — if oak tag, — or under the thread bindings — if ash splint. 
Separate the two long cords. They are now attacht ready for looping. 

Take the cord on the right in the right hand, cross it over the 
foundation, pass it around behind thru the opening of the ring, and up 
thru the loop on the right. Pull the cord out at right angles, tightening 
the loop firmly at the edge. (This is done by holding the long piece 

♦ See end of grade. 



NAPKIN RING (Continued) 

of cord taut and sliding the loop into place against the edge with the 
nails of the thumb and first finger.) Make as many more loops as may 
be desired on the same side and with the same hand (see Looping 
Chain, 2A) before alternating with the cord on the left side; that is, 
when needed take the cord on the left in the left hand, cross it over 
the foundation, pass it around behind and up thru the loop on the left. 
Pull the cord out at right angles, tightening the loop at the edge, as 
described above. 

Finish of the Napkin Ring. When the looping has been worked to within 
about 1" of the place of starting, pull out the pin, cut off the knots on 
the ends of the two short pieces of cord, turn the ends under the foun- 
dation and continue to loop over them. When the last row of looping 
has been put in, make the edge uniform by threading one of the pieces 
of cord thru the eye of a tapestry needle and running it up thru the 
first loop made on that same side. Do this also on the other edge if 
needed. The looping on both edges should now appear continuous. 
At this time the cords may be fastened off if no decoration is desired. 

Fastening. Thread the needle wdth one piece of cord, run it diagonally under 
as many of the bindings on the inside of the ring as possible (perhaps 
under 5 or 6 at a time), pull it thru, and again run the needle in at the 
same place and out diagonally under as many more strands as possible. 
When the cord has been run back for fully 1", pull it tight, cut it close 
and poke the end in between the cords until it disappears. 

Decoration. If, however, a decoration on the outside of the ring is desired, 
it should be carried out immediately after the completion of the edge. 
Any simple decoration may be made. For instance : 

a. The 2 cords may be held together and tied with a single knot 
about ^" from the ring. The 2 cords may then be looped alternately 
on themselves, making a short see-saw knot chain. A single knot 
should again be made, and each end of cord, separately, threaded thru 
the eye of the needle and run doiun thru a loop at the edge, diagonally 
y^" forward. This may be repeated in sections around the ring, or only 
part way, or as a continuous chain all the way. The cords should then 
be fastened as described above. 

h. Another method would be to form a lattice effect, by threading 
one cord alternately up thru the loops on the right and left hand edges, 
diagonally forward the same amount each time — and then by crossing 
the other cord over this at the same angles. 

c. Another method would be to knot the 2 cords with single knots 
at intervals of about \" around the ring. 

d. Still another method would be to twist the two long cords very 
tight and use them as a band around the ring. 

After the decoration has been carried out, the ends of cord should 

be fastened as described above. 

Note. — There are many modifications of these methods, and the ingenuity of the children 

should be allowed free play as long as the decorations are simple, strong, and kept 

on the outer surface of the ring. Any cord passing within would interfere with the 

passage of the rolled napkin. 

References. Jessup and Logue, ''The Handicraft Book," page 35. 

Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers," page 19. 
James, "How to Make Indian and Other Baskets" page 34. 

If the children have not already made the Looping Chain, let them first practice the 
looping on a splint or piece of flat reed with pieces of macrame cord of two colors about 
y4 yd. each in length. 



BABY'S RATTLE 

This model, and the Napkin Ring preceding it, are alike in 
general character. A choice may be given the children as to which 
one to make. 



BABY'S RATTLE 



Exercises. Single, double, triple, quadruple, etc., looping 

Materials. 1 piece of flat reed* (^" width), 1 yd. long {foundation) . 

2 pieces of macrame cord, each 5;^ yds. long, of different colors. 

About 6 small bells. 

1 pin. 

1 tapestry needle No. 20. 

Some white thread (for binding). 

Preparation of Materials. 

Flat Reed — 1 yd. long (foundation) . 

Get about 5 pieces of flat reed even at one end. Measure up 1 
yd. on these and cut across with shears. Continue to cut in groups of 
about 5 at a time. 
Macrame Cord — 5^ yds. long. 

Measure off a length of 1 yd. on the cord and lap it back and forth 
4y2. times. Cut. 

Directions. Reed Foundation. Curve the piece of reed around twice on itself 
until the ends lap about 1^". Bind the lapt ends firmly with white 
thread, and then bind spirally around the ring to keep the two parts of 
reed together. 

Macrame Cord Covering. (Before commencing the work make 
single knots on the ends of the cords to prevent fraying.) 

Roll up each of the two pieces of cord to within 12" of the other 
end as described under Looping Chain, 2 A. Run a pin thru the knotted 
end of one of the pieces of cord, then hold the reed ring in the left 
hand with the outside lapt end turned downward, and run the same 
pin between the 2 pieces of reed on the right hand edge about 1" above 
the lapt end. Where the pin comes out on the left hand edge run 
it thru the knotted end of the other piece of cord. The cords are now 
on opposite sides, suspended from the pin, and ready for use. 

Take the cord on the right in the right hand, cross it over the foun- 
dation, pass it around behind thru the opening of the ring and up thru 
the loop on the right. Pull the cord out at right angles, tightening the 
loop firmly at the edge, as described under Napkin Ring, 2A. Make as 
many more loops as may be desired on the same side and with the same 
hand (see Looping Chain, 2A) before alternating with the cord on the 
left side. That is, when needed, take the cord on the left in the left 
hand, cross it over the foundation, pass it around behind, and up thru 
the loop on the left. 
Finish of the Baby's Rattle. When the looping has been made to within 
about I" of the place of starting, pull out the pin, cut off the knots on the 
ends of the two short pieces of cord, turn the ends under the foundation, 
and continue to loop over them. When the last row has been put 
in, make the edge uniform by threading one of the pieces of cord thru 
the eye of a tapestry needle and running it up thru the first loop made 
on that same side. Do this also on the other edge if needed. The loop- 
ing on both edges should now appear continuous. 

♦ See end of Grade lA. 



BABY'S RATTLE (Continued) 

Decoration. A number of designs may be workt out in the center of the ring: 

a. Take the two loose cords which are on opposite sides of the ring, 
bring them togetlier on the inside of the ring, and tie them with a single knot 
close up to the loopt cord covering. Thread a bell on one of the pieces of 
cord, push it close to the knot, and tie both cords together again to keep the 
bell from slipping. Stretch the 2 cords across the ring to touch the edge at 
any point desired (say directly across, to cut the ring in half, or diagonally 
across to form one side of a triangle or square, or pentagon, or fan-shaped 
spray, etc.). Knot the cords together a little short of the place where they 
touch the edge, thread on a bell, knot the cords together again, and then, 
using the tapestry needle draw each cord in turn under 2 or 3 of the bindings 
on the inside of the ring. This completes one side. Continue knotting the 
cords, threading on a bell, knotting the cords again, stretching them across 
to the next place on the edge of the ring, knotting them a little short of the 
distance, threading on a bell, knotting, and drawing the cords under 2 or 
3 of the bindings. When the starting place is reacht, fasten each cord in 
turn by running it back with the needle under at least \" of the loopt cord 
covering. (Only a little of this can be done at a time.) Cut the ends and 
poke them out of sight. If the first ends show, cut them close also and 
poke them out of sight. 

b. Another method would be that of keeping the 2 loose cords on their 
respective sides of the ring, and forming shapes with these single cords. 
The bells, after being threaded on, would have to be held in place by the 
cord being tied in a single knot on itself at the place desired. When passing 
from one side of the shape (say triangle) to the next, the cord would have 
to be threaded thru one of the loops at the edge of the ring, and not under 
the bindings on the inside. 

Note. — But slight ingenuity is required to make other interesting centers for the ring. 
The rattle is similar to those seen in the shops bound with baby ribbon. 

If the children have not already made the Looping Chain, let them first practice the 
looping on a splint or piece of flat reed with pieces of macrame cord of two colors about 
^ yd. each in length. 



BOOKMARK 

This model forms the introduction to a series of Weaving prob- 
lems running thru the Grades. 



DIAGRAMS OF BOOKMARK 
Twined Weaving 




Spokes in position. 




Haffia in position. Left strand crost over right. 

(The pin has been omitted in these diagrams.) 



BOOKMARK 



Exercise. Twined weaving. 



Materials. 1 piece of flat reed* (^" width), 6" long (handle). 
2 piece of flat reed (%" width), 3}^" long (spokes). 
2 or more pieces of raffia*, of 2 colors. 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 
1 pin. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Flat Reed — 6" long (handle) and 3y^" long (spokes). 

Same as for Baby's Rattle, 2A, except that the lengths are to be 
6" and 3>^" respectively. Soak the reeds to straighten them and cut 
off any loose fibrous parts. 
Raffia — 2 pieces. 

Soften each piece of raffia by stroking it in the hand from the 
broad end downward. Spht off a piece from each about yi" wide and 
continue to stroke until all harshness has been removed. This is neces- 
sary for smooth raffia work. 

Directions. Hold together the broad ends of the 2 pieces of raffia and tie a 
single knot near the top. 

Take one of the shorter pieces of reed and run a pin thru the center 
of it. Take the second short piece, place it behind the other and run 
the pin thru the center of it; and finally place the long strip of reed 
behind these two and even at the top, and run the pin thru this also. 
Push the pin thru as far as it will go. Adjust the spokes so that the 
top one will slant from the upper left to the lower right hand corner and 
so that the angles between the spokes will be even. 

Twined Weaving. Hold the reeds in the left hand, placing the 
thumb over the head of the pin and allowing the point to project 
between the first and middle fingers on the back. With the right hand, 
slip the tied ends of raffia over the top spoke, and hold the knot and ends 
against the back under the first finger. Take the raffia strand to the 
left and weave it around toward the right, by crossing it over the top 
spoke, passing it under the next spoke, and pulling it tight in close to the 
reeds at the center. Hold it under the thumb. (This strand of raffia has 
now moved forward one spoke.) Pick up the other strand, pass it over 
the spoke to the right, under the next spoke and pull it tight in close 
to the center. Release the hold on the first piece of raffia, throw it 
upward over the thumb nail, and slip the new piece into place under 
the thumb. Continue to do this, always taking the strand further back, 
': moving it forward over, under, pulling it tight against the center and 
holding it under the thumb. The old strand must always be above the 
new one when it is to be used again. 
Joining. If a raffia strand should give out, prepare a new piece of raffia 
uniform in size with the first pieces, turn the broad end away from 
you, lay it in between the spokes from which the old end is coming, 
hold the end under the first finger on the back, and using the two pieces 
of raffia — old and new^as one, proceed with the weaving. 

* For materials, see end of Grade lA and see end of this grade. 



DIAGRAMS OF BOOKMARK (Continued) 

(The pin has been omitted in these diagrams.) 




Left strand crost over right. 





Showing ends partially finisht. 



BOOKMARK (Continued) 

Fastening. When a rosette of about 1%" in diameter has been made, fasten 
the 2 ends of raffia, by threading one at a time thru the eye of a tapestry 
needle, running it down along the nearest spoke on which there is raffia 
of that color, and drawing the needle out at the center. Cut the raffia 
close to the reed and poke the end back under the covering. 

Finish of Bookmark. Cut off all ends where any joining has been made. 
Find the place on the back where the original knots and ends are, pull 
these free from under the coverings with the needle, if they have gotten 
caught in working, and cut them away entirely, clipping them both at the 
right and at the left of the reed. Cut the 5 spokes of reed down to 
within y^" of the edge of the rosette and shape them in some simple 
way. (Corners may be cut off slightly, or a very blunt point made.) 
Shape the lower end of the handle also. 

Note. — When finisht, the Bookmark should be reversible — equally good on both sides. 
It is a modification of the bookmarks made by the Canadian and Northern New 
York State Indians of colored splints and sweet grass. 

References. White, "How to Make Baskets," pages 15, 16, and plate before 15. 
Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book" pages 64, 65, 67. 
James, "Indian and Other Basket Making," page 34. 



UMBRELLA 

This model is not included in the regular Gourse of Study in 
Sewing, but has proved of great interest to the children. 



DIAGRAMS OF UMBRELLA 
Binding 




UMBRELLA 



Exercise. Binding. 



Materials. 1 cork. 

8 small-headed pins, about 2^" long (ribs). { 

or 8 strong wooden tooth-picks. 

1 meat skewer or piece of round reed No. 5 {handle). 
about 5 strands of raffia, of 2 colors if desired. 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Round Reed No. 5 — Same as for Whip, 1 A , except that the length will have 
to be adjusted to suit the size of the top of the umbrella. 

Raffia — 5 strands. Same as for Bookmark, 2A. 

Directions. Hold the cork, small end up, in the left hand. Run one of the 
pins firmly into it about %" down from the top and at a slightly 
greater downward angle than the rib is to be when finisht. (The pins 
have a tendency to work up and become more horizontal as the raffia 
is bound around them.) Take a second pin and run it firmly into the 
cork directly opposite to the first one — the same distance down from the 
top and at the same downward angle. Place a third pin half way 
between these two, on one side, again keeping the distance from the 
top and the downward angle the same. Run a fourth pin in directly 
opposite to this. Place the remaining four pins equi-distant between 
these, thus dividing the cork into eighths. Adjust the pins until they 
all are evenly spaced, and until all the heads of the pins touch the desk 
when laid upon it. 

Hold the cork with the pins, small end up, in the left hand, having 
the thumb on top and the middle finger underneath. Take the hroad end 
of the softened yi" strip of raffia, point it away from you, place it 
against the cord in between the two pins furthest from you, and hold it 
firmly under the first finger. Take the long end of raffia in the right 
hand, keep it flat like a ribbon, bind it once over on top and around 
under the pin to the right and pull it tight against the cork. Do the 
same with the next pin to the right, keep the raffia flat, bind it over on 
top and around under the pin and pull it tight against the cork. Con- 
tinue in this way, binding around each pin in turn until the raffia grows 
too short to use. 

Joining. Prepare a new piece of raffia uniform in size with the first. Bind 
the old end once and a half times around the pin, and hold it dovt^n 
underneath. Turn the broad end of the new piece of raffia away from 
you, place it just back of the pin, bind it around the pin twice, and 
proceed as before. 



UMBRELLA (Continued) 

Fastening. When the pins have been entirely covered out to the heads, 
thread the last end of raffia thru the eye of a tapestry needle, bind the 
raffia loosely two or three times around the last pin and run the needle 
under these bindings. Pull tight and cut the end off about j/g" in length. 

Finish of Umbrella. Cut all ends of raffia on the inside of the umbrella 
where the joinings were made, to an }i" length. Run the handle (a 
meat skewer or a piece of round reed pointed at one end) carefully into 
the center of the larger end of the cork. 

Note. — Bands and borders may be made on the Umbrella by introducing strands of raffia 
of a different color at intervals. 

If the cork should be the same size at both ends, and large, it would be, perhaps, 
more appropriate to make a Japanese umbrella, with pins put in nearly horizontal. 
This method of binding is also used in the making of spider-webs in drawn-work, 
and has been applied in raffia hat making to cover the wire frames. 

References. James, "Indian and Other Basket Making," page 34. 

Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers," pages 24, 25. 



PICTURE FRAME 



DIAGRAMS OF PICTURE FRAME 
Looping and Binding 




Joining 



PICTURE FRAME 

Exercises. A. Single looping. B. Binding. 

Materials. 1 picture, black and white or brown in finish.* (Half-tone repro- 
ductions are best.) 

1 cardboard frame to suit the picture {small circle, large circle or 
ellipse) . 

1 piece of oak tag or other stiff paper {for backing). 

about 10 strands of raffia. 

1 tapestry needle No. 20. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Cardboard Frames — may be purchased already cut. 

Oak Tag — Cut pieces on the cutting machine a little larger than the size 

of the frames. 
RafHa — about 10 strands. Same as for Bookmark, 2A. 

Directions. Picture. Lay the picture on the piece of oak tag, place the frame 
over it, and adjust the picture until it shows the part desired. Gently 
remove the frame, mark the outline of the picture, paste it in place and 
again adjust the frame over it. With a very sharp-pointed pencil trace 
around the outer edge of the frame and cut the oak tag a little inside 
of the pencil line. This will form a good backing for the picture frame 
and will be exactly the size and shape needed. It must always he done 
before the frame is covered. 

Method of Covering the Frame. 

A. Looping. (The looping cannot be done successfully if the raffia is at all 
harsh). 

Hold the cardboard frame in the left hand. Take the broader 
end of the raffia strip, place it against the frame, end facing toward the 
right, and hold it firmly under the thumb of the left hand. With the 
right hand take the long piece of raffia near the end, pass it down thru 
the opening in the frame, and out over itself, thus forming a loop. (See 
diagrams of Napkin Ring, IB). Pull the loop downward and over 
toward the left, and to tighten finally, hold the long piece of raffia taut, 
slip the nails of the thumb and first finger of the right hand up on the 
raffia, and press the loop tight against the edge of the frame. (This 
method relieves the strain on the raffia, which otherwise, if ordinary 
method of pulling tight were used, would probably cut into the frame 
on the inside, or the raffia itself be cut against the edge of the frame.) 
Proceed forming loops in a similar fashion, drawing them close toward 
the left, and lapping the strands well on the inner edge of the frame. 
The end left when starting will gradually be covered. No portion of 
the foundation should show as the work progresses. 

* Do not allow the children to use colored pictures. They are generally very crude and the 
colors clash with the raffia. 



PICTURE FRAME (Continued) 

Joining. When the raffia strand is used up, or becomes too thin to make the 
looping uniform with the rest on the edge, introduce a new piece of 
raffia. Make it similar in width and softness to the first piece, lay the 
broad end on the frame, end facing toward the right. Loop over this 
once with the old end, draw the new piece of raffia just introduced down 
close to the edge of the frame, turn both the new and old short ends of 
raffia to the back, and holding them tight, proceed looping with the new 
long end, gradually covering both ends on the back. 

Fastening. When the looping has been workt all the way around the frame 
back to the place of starting, thread the last end of raffia thru a tapestry 
needle, run it up thru the first loop made, thus making the edge con- 
tinuous, pull the raffia tight, turn the frame over to the wrong side and 
fasten by running the needle under the strands for a distance of at 
least 3". 
B. Binding. Another quicker and simpler way to cover the picture frame is 
to wrap the raffia around and around the frame, letting each new 
binding lap well over the last. For this method the raffia should be split 
about yi" wide, should be opened up carefully, and spread out flat with 
the fingers, and kept flat like a ribbon while binding. Lay the broad 
end of the raffia against the cardboard frame, hold it under the thumb 
of the left hand, pass the longer piece of raffia across the frame toward 
you, down underneath and up thru the opening. Continue to do this, 
keeping the wrappings tight and having Jh em lap well at both the inner 
and outer edges. 

Joining. When the raffia strand gives out, lay the broad end of a new piece 
on top of the last portion of the work, and bind over it twice with the 
old end. Hold this last end against the back of the frame, pick up the 
long new piece of raffia and continue with the binding. 

Fastening. When the binding has been carried all the way around the frame 
to the place of starting, turn the frame over to the wrong side, thread a 
tapestry needle with the last end of raffia and run it back under the 
strands for a distance of at least 3". 

Finish of Frame. The frame may be planned either to stand or to hang. 

Standard. Take a heavy piece of oak tag, cut it some shape which 
will hold up the frame when pasted to the back. A right-angled triangle 
with projecting flange and with the base slanted up slightly so that the 
frame will tip back, will answer, — or a long strip of the oak tag folded at 
what would be the bottom line, and pasted to the frame by both the 
upper and lower ends, would also answer. 

Loop. Make a little piece of some form of knotting for the raffia 
loop. {Single chain-stitch, see-saw knot, looping chain, small brass ring 
covered with looping or binding, etc.) Be sure not to have the piece too 
heavy in proportion to the frame. Thread a tapestry needle with a very 



PICTURE FRAME (Continued) 

fine piece of raffia (to be used as sewing thread). Bind one end of the 
little piece with this, cut off all ends beyond the binding, and lay 
the bound end against the back of the frame, being sure to have it come 
at the center top so that the picture will hang even. Sew under the 
bindings and up thru the loop piece many times, following up and down 
the line of the little loop piece where it lies against the frame on the back. 
When this has been sufficiently secured, do the same with the other 
end of the loop piece. Have a loop sufficiently large to pass over a glass 
thumb tack, nail or other small projection. Do not exaggerate it. 
Decoration. If desired, a simple decoration may be added on the frame 
either in contrasting or self color. 

a. A piece of raffia may be woven over and under some of the 
bindings, both the end in starting and in finishing being concealed under 
the strands on the frame. 

b. An overcasting stitch may be made around the edge of the 
frame, sewed at intervals thru the looping. 

c. A loopt network may be added over the covered frame. 

d. Big embroidered dots may be carried out by sewing under a 
group of the bindings a number of times and then running the needle 
under and forward for the next one. 

e. A tiny see-saw knot chain may be made and sewed to the outer 
and inner edges with raffia thread. 

References. Tinsley, ''Practical and Artistic Basketry/' pages 22, 121. 
James, ''Indian and Other Basket Making/' page 26. 
Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers/' page 20. 
Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book/' page 36. 



BOX 

This model is a more elaborate application of the looping or 
binding carried out on the Picture Frame. It may be given in place 
of the Frame to those children not promoted who have already satis- 
factorily made the Picture Frame. 



DIAGRAMS OF BOX 
Looping or Binding and Sewing Stitches 



BOX 

Exercises. Looping, binding, and some sewing stitch for connecting the side and 
bottom (overhanding or slip-stitch). 

Materials. 1 cardboard bottom piece, circular or elhptical, with a hole about 
1" in the center. 

1 cardboard top piece, yi" larger all around than the bottom piece, 
and circular or elliptical, with a hole about 1" in the center. 

1 strip for side piece of ash splint, bristol board, or several thick- 
nesses of oak tag. To be any width desired and long enuf to 
fit around the bottom, allowing for a lap of l}^". 

About 20 strands of raffia. 

1 tapestry needle No. 20. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Cardboard Bottom and Top Pieces — circular or elliptical. 

Prepare a pattern out of oak tag the desired size and shape. 
Place this on a piece of strawboard or pad back and trace the outline 
of the bottom and top. Cut carefully, using curved nail scissors on 
the inner circle or ellipse. 

Side Piece. 

Use bristol board for this. (It must be something which will not 
crack when curved.) Measure and cut a strip the desired width and 
1^" longer than the distance around the bottom piece. 

Raffia — about 30 strands. Same as for Bookmark, 2A. 

Directions. 

Top and Boitom of Box. Cover the cardboard top and bottom of the box 
with looping or binding, as under Picture Frame, 2A. 

Side of Box. Curve the strip to be used for the side of the box, lap the 
ends the amount allowed (l^^"), bind with thread, as under Napkin 
Ring, 2A, and cover with looping or binding, as under Picture Frame, 
2A. 

Spider-Web Filling for Holes. Fill in the holes in both cover and bottom 
with a spider's web as follows : Thread the needle with a piece of raffia 
about %" in width. Hold the cover or bottom piece wrong side up. 
Run the needle under the bindings all the way around the hole in 
order to make the raffia secure in starting. Plan to make at least 8 
spokes on which to weave the web. At a point directly opposite to 
where the thread emerges at the edge of the hole, run the needle under 
the bindings and bring it out for the next spoke at what would be a 
quarter of the circumference around the circle (if only 8 spokes are 
to be made). Again cross the hole, this time diagonally to the opposite 
side, running the needle under the bindings a distance equal to one 
quarter of the circumference, bringing the needle out at the half 
mark. Continue making the spokes diagonally across the hole until all 
8 (or more if so planned) have been put in. The needle, in forming 
the last spoke, should be run out in the same hole with the first spoke, 
and then carried down the first spoke to the center where the strands 
cross. A loop stitch should be made here by holding the raffia under 
the thumb of the left hand, throwing the thread around to the right, 
running the needle under as many as possible of the spokes where 



BOX (Continued) 

they cross at the center, and bringing the needle out over itself. Pull 
tight and adjust in the center. Use the same piece of raffia thread, if 
long enough, for the weaving on the spokes. Run the needle over, 
under, over, under the spokes until the place of starting is reacht. 
As there are an even number of spokes (8) it will be necessary to go 
over 2 at a time when changing from one row to the next. Fill in the 
hole completely with the spider's-web and fasten by running the needle 
around the edge of the hole under the bindings. 

Joining of Bottom and Side. Fit together the bottom and side of the 
box, and sew the edges with an overhanding stitch if the cardboard 
parts have been covered with looping, or with a slip-stitch if they have 
been covered with binding. 

Overhanding. Be sure to have the looping on the edge of the 
side piece turned dozvn against the bottom. Thread the needle with 
a fine but tuf piece of raffia for thread. Run the needle around under 
the raffia on the side of the box for a distance of about 2" to make 
the end secure, and then sew over the 2 loopt edges, pointing the 
needle straight toward you (see Overhanding, 4A) and making the 
stitches about yi" to the left each time. Fasten by running the needle 
under the bindings well around the box. 

Slip-Stitch. After securing the end of raffia in starting sew alter- 
nately under a few of the bindings on the side of the box and then 
a few of the bindings on the bottom of the box. The stitch may be 
made to show as a straight bar over the edges or slightly slanting 
according to the place the needle is run in. Fasten as above. 

Cover. Place the cover in position and attach it with some form of hinge. 

a. Two workt-loops {eyelets) serve the purpose well. Sew sev- 
eral foundation strands from the cover to the side of the box, and 
then work over these with the looping stitch. 

h. Make a short piece of Solomon's knot, looping or see-saw knot 
chain, bind the ends, place them against the inside of the side of the 
box, letting a loop of the chain stand above the edge, and sew them 
securely. Bend the loop over, place the cover in position, and sew 
the loop securely to the under side of the cover where it lies against it. 

Front Fastening. The front of the box may be fastened with a loop on the 
cover and knob on the side, or with a loop on both cover and side, one 
slipping over the other, with a little piece of reed or match stick to 
secure it. 

The knob may be constructed out of several pieces of raffia tied 
in a double or triple knot (see Whip, lA) with the ends run thru the 
box and fastened within. Or it may be made out of a little piece of 
chain tied in a single knot. The loop is similar to that described under 
a for the hinges, except that the foundation parts want to be loose enuf 
to fit over the knob. A pencil held upright against the edge of the 
cover will usually serve as a large enuf object around w^hich to work. 

References. Tinsley, ''Practical and Artistic Basketry," pages I2i, 122. 

Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," pages 59, 60, 61, 63. 



REEF OR AMBULANCE KNOT 



DIAGRAMS OF REEF OR AMBULANCE KNOT 






REEF OR AMBULANCE KNOT 

Exercise. Reef or ambulance knot. 

Materials. 2 pieces of macrame cord, each 10" long, of different colors. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Macrame Cord — 10" long. 

Wind the cord around a book or other object about 10" long and 
cut thru the cord at both ends. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work make single knots on the ends of 
the cords to prevent fraying.) 

Hold the end of one cord in the right hand and the end of the other 
in the left. Cross the end in the left hand over the one in the right, 
and tie it once around the long cord to the right. Bring the two short 
ends together, and using the same end, tie it once around over the end 
to the left (i. e., cross it Ofuer, around, and up thru the opening). Pull 
the knot tight, keeping the long and short ends of one color in one 
hand, and the long and short ends of the other color in the other hand. 
A flat, square knot is thus formed. 
Avoid making a ''granny -knot," which results when the ends are tied in 
the reverse way. (See Hasluck, "Knotting and splicing;' page 17.) 
This knot stands up like a knob and twists crooked. 

Note. — The Reef or Ambulance Knot serves many purposes : 

a. — Shipboard. This knot is used on board ship because it never jams (i. e., becomes 

too hard to undo readily). A push on the rope in opposite directions loosens the 

knot. It is used for reefing sails, because of the rapidity with which it can be tied 

and undone, 
b. — Surgery. It is also of value in tying the ends of the thread in a wound where sewn, 

or the ends of bandages, because of its flatness and the ease with which it can be 

loosened, 
c. — Bookbinding. The bookbinder uses it to tie the ends of the thread used in sewing 

together the sections of the book. It serves his purpose best because of its flatness, 
d. — Tying Bundles. It is an excellent knot for joining two pieces of string in tying 

bundles, and as a final knot. 

References. Hasluck, ''Knotting and Splicing," pages 16, 17. 

Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book" page 42. 



BANNISTER BAR CHAIN 

A choice may be given to the children of making either this, or 
the Solomon's Knot Chain following it, full length. 



DIAGRAMS OF BANNISTER BAR CHAIN 





First cord. 



Second cord. 



IT 





Second cord 
continued. 



Knot completed. 



Second knot 
being formed. 



Second knot 
completed. 



BANNISTER BAR CHAIN 



Exercise.. Bannister bar knot. 

Materials. 1 piece of macrame cord, 2 yds. long {foundation). 

1 piece of macrame cord, 6 yds. long, of a different color {working 

strand) . 
1 extra piece of macrame cord, about 12" long, of a color different 

from both of the above. 

1 trinket. 

2 pins. 

1 tapestry needle No. 20. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Macrame Cord — 2 yds. long {foundation) and 
Macrame Cord — 6 yds. long {working strand). 
See under Looping Chain, 2A. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work make single knots on the ends of 
the cords to prevent fraying.) 

Proceed as described under Looping Chain, 2 A, to the point where 
the foundation cords are made taut ready for work. 

Bannister Bar Knot. To form the bannister bar, take tne cord on 
the right with the right hand and cross it over the foundation cords at 
right angles. Take the cord on the left with the left hand, lay it down- 
ward over the first cord, then pass it around behind the foundation cords 
and up thru the loop on the right. Pull the two ends equally, and at 
right angles, until the tied part tightens close to the single knot above. 
{Ambidextrous work.) Again cross the right hand strand over the 
foundation cords, lay the cord on the left over it, pass it around behind, 
and up thru the loop on the right. Pull tight. It will be noticed that 
this gives a sldght twist to the cJiain. Continue down the chain in 
exactly the same manner, always using the strand on the right to cross 
over the foundation cords, and the strand on the left to tie around them. 
The chain will continue to twist of itself. 
Finish of Chain. Continue until the body part of the chain measures 23". 

Then finish as described under Looping Chain, 2A. 
To put on the Trinket. Same as for Looping Chain, 2A. 

Note. — There is but slight difference between this and the Solomon's Knot (see following 
page) in the tying, but the finisht effect is very different. 
It affords an opportunity for ambi-dextrous training. 

References. Walker, "Varied Occupations in String Work,'' pages 65, 100, loi. 
Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers," pages 16, 17. 
Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," page 52. 

Have the children practice this knot first with shorter pieces of macrame cord of two 
colors, — about 1 yd. and 3 yds. in length respectively. 



SOLOMON'S KNOT CHAIN 

A choice may be given to the children of making either this, or 
the Bannister Bar Chain preceding it, full length. 



DIAGRAMS OF SOLOMON'S KNOT CHAIN 
Solomon's Knot 




First cord. 



Second cord. 





Second cord 
continued. 



First half of knot 
completed. 



Second half ready to 
pull tight. 



SOLOMON'S KNOT CHAIN 



Exercise. Solomon's knot. 

Materials. 1 piece of macrame cord, 2 yds. long (foundation). 

1 piece of macrame cord, 6 yds. long, of a different color (working 

strand). 
1 extra piece of macrame cord, about 12" long, of a color different 

from both of the above. 

1 trinket. 

2 pins. 

1 tapestry needle No. 20. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Macrame Cord — 2 yds. long (foundation) and 
Macrame Cord — 6 yds. long (working strand). 

Directions. (Before commencing the work make single knots on the ends of 
the cords to prevent fraying.) 

Proceed as described under Looping Chain, 2A, to the point where 
the foundation cords are made taut ready for work. 

Solomon's Knot. To form the Solomon's knot, take the cord on the 
right with the right hand and cross it over the foundation cords at right 
angles. Take the cord on the left with the left hand, lay it downward 
over the first cord, then pass it around behind the foundation cords and 
up thru the loop on the right. Pull the two ends equally, and at right 
angles, until the tied part tightens close to the single knot above. This 
forms half of the knot. Cross the same strand that did the crossing 
before (now on the left) over the foundation cords at right angles, lay 
the cord that did the tying before (now on the right) downward over 
the other cord, pass it around behind the foundation cords and up 
thru the loop on the left. Pull the cords tight at right angles. This 
forms a complete Solomon's knot. Continue making Solomon's knots 
one after the other on the chain, always using that cord which crost 
over the foundation cords for the crossing, and that one which passed 
over, behind and up thru the loop, for the tying. 
• Finish of Chain. Continue until the body part of the chain measures 23". 
Then finish as described under Looping Chain, 2 A. 
To put on the Trinket. Same as for Looping Chain, 2A. 

Note — This exercise affords an opportunity for amhi- dextrous training. 

The knot is supposed to have originated with the building of the Temple in Solo- 
mon's reign. It was used in the form of knotted fringes on hangings, on the 
Priests' robes, and in other ways for decoration. 

Reference. Walker, "Varied Occupations in String Work," pages 65, 103, 104. 

Have the children practice this knot first with shorter pieces of macrame cord of two 
colors, — about 1 yd. and 3 yds. in length respectively. 



SOLOMON'S KNOT GIRDLE 

This model, and the Bag following it, are more elaborate applica- 
tions of the Solomon's Knot. They may be used as class problems, 
or given to those children not promoted who have already satisfac- 
torily made the Chains. 



SOLOMON'S KNOT GIRDLE 



Exercise. Solomon's knot. 

Materials. 24 round laces* (double length required). 

or 12 pieces of macrame cord, each about 4 yds. long. 

1 small piece of cardboard (frame to hold the strands in starting). 

Preparation of Materials. 

Round Laces — Use them full length. They generally run 2 yds. or a 

little over. 
Cardboard — Cut on the cutting machine a strip from a pad back or piece of 

strawboard about 4x1^". 

Directions. 



* See end of grade. 



SOLOMON'S KNOT BAG 

This model, and the Girdle preceding it, are more elaborate 
applications of the Solomon's Knot. They may be used as class 
problems, or given to those children not promoted who have already 
satisfactorily made Chain. 



DIAGRAMS OF SOLOMON'S KNOT BAG 

Cinch and Solomon's Knots 





Cinch knot. 





Solomon's knot. 



Second Row. Meshing. Uniting half of 
one group with half of another. 



SOLOMON'S KNOT BAG 

Exercises. Cinch knot, Solomon's knot. 

Materials. 12 brass rings (^" diameter). 

24 strands of raffia of 2 colors (body part). 

Choose pieces that are long, quite heavy and uniform in size. 
4 strands of raffia (draw-strings). 
or 48 piece of macrame cord, each 1^ yds. long (body part). 

4 pieces of macrame cord, each about 1 yd. long (draw-strings). 
or round laces and larger brass rings may be substituted if a heavier 
bag is desired. 
12 pins. 
1 piece of cardboard. 

1 piece of macrame cord or twine about 18" long. 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Raffia — 24 strands, of 2 colors. 

Stroke each piece in the hand from the broad end downward until 

all harshness is removed. 
Macrame Cord — \% yds. long (body part) and 
Macrame Cord — 1 yd. long (draw-strings). 

See under Looping Chain, 2A. 
Round Laces — To be used full length. They generally run 2 yds. or over. 
Cardboard — The width and length of this strip will have to be determined 

after the second row in the bag. 

Directions. Place one of the rings well to the left on the knee and pin it to the 
the dress. (Run the pin down into the material in the center of the 
ring and out over the ring on the other side.) Take one of the strands 
of raffia, double it until the heaviest and most uniform parts of the 
raffia are about 14" long and put it on the ring with a cinch knot. (See 
diagrams of Curtain, lA.) Take a strand of the other color of raffia, 
double it in the same way and put it on the ring beside the other with a 
cinch knot. Tighten each cinch knot against the ring by pulling on 
the 2 strands and pressing the knot up into place with the nails, 
(Be sure to have the 2 knots face the same way on the ring.) 
Take a second ring, place it close beside the first, to the right and 
exactly on a line with the other at the top. Pin it to the dress as 
described above. Put 2 strands of raffia — one of each color — on this 
ring with cinch knots, as above, having the same color to the left on 
each of the 2 rings and the cinch knots the same side up. Proceed, 
pinning each of the rings in turn to the knee close to the right, until 
about 6 are so pinned, and having the colors of the 2 pieces of raffia 
and the cinch knots uniform with those on the first ring. This brings 
cm alternation of color across the bag and the cinch knots the side up 
without the cross-bar. 

Solomon's Knot. Start with the ring to the left. Tie a Solomon's 
knot ^" down from the ring with these 4 strands of raffia. Do this by 
holding the 2 center strands in the left hand as foundation, crossing the 
strand on the right over these at right angles, bringing the left hand 
strand down over this piece to the left, passing it behind the foundation 
strands and up thru the loop on the right. Pin the foundation strands 



SOLOMON'S KNOT BAG (Continued) 

firmly to the knee and then pull the knot tight up to within Yz" from the 
ring. This forms half of the knot. Unpin the foundation strands. 
Cross the same strand that did the crossing before (now on the left) 
over the foundation strands at right angles, lay the strand that did the 
tying before (now on the right) downward over the other strand, pass 
it around behind the foundation strands and up thru the loop on the 
left. Again pin the foundation strands firmly to the knee. Pull the 
2 strands tight at right angles and let the new part slip up close against 
that previously tied. This forms a complete Solomons knot. 

Repeat this same thing on each of the 6 rings in turn, having all 
the knots exactly on a line. 

Meshing. For the second row, discard the 2 strands of the same 
color to the extreme left, take the remaining 2 strands of the other color 
and unite them with the adjoining 2 strands of the first color from the 
next knot. Make the knot as described above and ^" down from the 
upper knots. Be sure to pull the strands straight downward in forming 
and tightening the knot so that both sides of the mesh will be the same 
length. Continue across this row, each time taking the remaining 2 
strands from the knot on the left and uniting them with the adjoining 
2 strands from the knot next on the right. 

When this second row has been completed for the 6 rings, unpin 
the meshed piece from the knee, shift it over to the left, pin it again 
in place and continue to add each ring at a time of the remaining 6, 
dealing with each in turn as for the first set. 

Uniting the Bag at the Side. The circuit should always be closed and the 
bag made continuous in that row in which the strands are divided for 
the meshing (half from one knot and half from the other). In the 
scheme described above this comes in the second rotu. 

Cut a piece of cardboard just wide enuf to slip into the bag 
without stretching the meshes too open, and let it be about 4" to 5" long. 
Notch this near the top on the two sides, run a piece of raffia or cord 
thru the 12 rings, slip the cardboard down into the bag, divide the rings 
so that 6 will be on one side of the cardboard and 6 on the other, and tie 
the cord or raffia strip tight, catching it in the notches. This will hold 
the rings on a straight line as the other rows of the bag are made. 

Third Row. Continue the meshing, taking half from one knot and 
half from the adjoining knot. Be sure to unite again the 4 strands which 
come from the 2 inch knots on the ring above. This means to return the 
original colors together again. 

Fourth Row, etc. In the fourth row the original 4 strands are 
again divided, in the fifth row reunited, and so on. Make as many 
rows deep in the bag as desired. 

Closing the Bag at the Bottom. Remove the cardboard, fold the bag in 
half and place a front and a back knot exactly over each other. 
This makes 8 strands to unite. Either tie these with a single knot (all 
8 as one, if not too bulky), or continue to make Solomon's knots close 
up against the other, 2 and close together (as for the Solomon's Knot 
Chain, 2A), separating out for the tying the right hand strand of the knot 
above, and the left hand strand of the knot below, and using the re- 
maining 6 strands as foundation. On a large bag about 2^ Solomon's 
knots would be needed. 



SOLOMON'S KNOT BAG (Continued) 

Fastening. Split a fine piece of raffia from any one of the strands, bind 
this firmly 5 or 6 times around the strands below the last Solomon's 
knot, thread it thru the tapestry needle and run the needle up and down 
several times thru the foundation material under the knots. 

Finish. Cut the raffia from ^" to 3^' below the binding and split with a 
pin to form a tassel. 

Covering of Brass Rings. Loop around each of the 12 rings with a very 
fine piece of raffia. Thread the tapestry needle with the raffia, run 
the needle carefully from left to right thru the 2 cinch knots below 
the ring, leave an end of about 1", and proceed, looping around the 
ring to the right. (See Looping Chain, 2A.) Keep the loops crowded 
close. When within ^" of the place of starting, liold the end left at 
the beginning against the ring and continue the looping over it. Cut 
off the end where it projects. 

Fastening. When the looping has finally been brought close against the 
cinch knots on the left, fasten by running the needle gently back and 
forth thru the cinch knots. 

Draw Strings. Use 2 strings. Make these of pieces of raffia fine enuf 
to correspond, when finisht, to the size of the bag. The single chain- 
stitch, see-saw knot, looping or Solomon's knot may be used as motifs. 
In the case of the looping or Solomon's knot it would be better to 
make a short section of solid work, and then skip a space, and so on. 
This makes the draw-strings less rigid. 

Running the Draw-Strings Thru. Start at one side of the bag. Run one 
of the draw-strings around thru the 12 rings, having it pass thru 
each ring in a similar way. Place the 2 ends together, allow an exten- 
sion of about 2" beyond the bag, and fasten the 2 ends securely. 
If it is a single chain-stitch piece, the 2 ends may be held as one and a 
single knot made close against the chain-stitch. If the see-saw knot, 
the 4 ends may be dealt with in the same way. If the looping, or the 
Solomon's knot have been used, place the 8 strands together, choose 
the right hand strand from the upper loop or knot, and the left hand 
strand from the lower loop or knot, hold the remaining 6 strands as 
foundation, and either loop 3 or 4 times or make 1}4 Solomon's knots. 

Fastening. Same as for Closing the Bag at the Bottom, described above. 

Finish. Cut the raffia Y^" beyond the binding and fray with a pin to form 
a tassel. 

Then run the second draw-string around the top of the bag, 
starting at the opposite side, and passing the draw-string thru each of 
the 12 rings in a manner exactly similar to that of the first draw-string. 

Note. — For practice, or if the time is limited, a smaller bag may be made, say with 6 rings. 
Only 4 or 5 rows need be mesht, and the finish of the bottom of the bag and draw 
strings would need to be shorter in proportion. The strings should not extend more 
than i" beyond the bag. 

This size would be too small for real service, however. 

References. Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," page 55. 

Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers," pages 20, 2y, 28. 
Tinsley, "Practical and Artistic Basketry," page 69. 



COVERED HANGING JARS, FANCY BAGS, HATS, ETC. 

These models are too difficult for childrea in Grade 2A, but 
they have been included here because made with the Solomon's Knot 
motive. They could better be carried out in the Third Year or 
above. 



COVERED HANGING JARS. FANCY BAGS. HATS. ETC. 

Exercises. Cinch knot, Solomon's knot, braiding. 

Materials, 

Hanging Jar — 1 or 2 brass rings {)i" diameter). 

About 16 strands of raffia (body part). The amount should 

be chosen to suit the size of the jar. 
About 30 strands of raffia (long suspending braids). 

1 tapestry needle No. 20. 
Fancy Bag — 1 brass ring (}i" or ^" diameter). 

About 20 strands of raffia (body part). The amount will 

vary according to the size and style of the bag. 
About 8 strands of raffia (draw-strings). 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 
Some mercerized cotton, linen or silk material (lining for 

bag). 

Hat — Raffia strands (amount cannot be stated). 
Wire hat frame. 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 

Preparation of Materials. 

RafHa — Choose pieces that are long, quite heavy and uniform in size. Stroke 
each piece in the hand from the broad end downward until all harsh- 
ness is removed. 

Directions. , 

HANGING JAR. 

Double in turn each of the 16 strands of raffia, choosing the 
heaviest and most uniform parts. Put the strands on the ring with 
cinch knots (see Curtain, lA), having the knots all the same side up. 
Tight-en each cinch knot against the ring by pulling on the 2 strands 
and pressing the knot up into place with the nails. Let the strands 
radiate from the ring, place it flat on the knee and pin it firmly by 
running the pin down into the cloth in the center and then out again 
over the ring. (See Diagrams of Solomon s Knot Bag, 2A.) 

Meshing. Various designs may be made with the mesh, forming 
interesting traceries over the jar. This may be done by forming 
mesht portions with the Solomon's knot, then chain portions, then 
meshes again, etc., varying the proportions of these. 

a. One design might be: single knots y^" from the ring on the 
2 raffia strands coming from each cinch knot. (For details in working, 
see Twine Ball Holder, 2B.) Then a mesh with 3 consecutive Solo- 
mon's knots y%" below the single knots (see Solomon's Knot Bag). 
Then another mesh of y%" with 3 consecutive Solomon's knots and so 
on until the mesht bag part will reach part way up the side of the jar. 
Then long straight lines formed by making Solomon's knots some dis- 
tance from the last row on the same 4 strands. Then several rows 
of meshing small enuf to narrow the bag covering around the neck of 
the jar. 

b. Another design might be: start immediately to mesh with 
Solomon's knots y%" or less from the brass ring. Continue until a 
mesht bag part has been formed which will reach part way up the 
side of the jar. Make Solomon's knot chains, with open spaces between 



COVERED HANGING JARS. FANCY BAGS. HATS. ETC. (Continued) 

groups of knots, for a short distance, then put in two or three rows 
of mesh, then open chains again, and finally mesh small to draw 
in the covering against the neck of the jar. 

Suspending Strands. Divide the ends above the mesht part into groups 
and braid them into long pieces, adding new strands as needed. (See 
Braided Mat, Hat, Basket, Whiskbroom Holder, 3A.) 

Finish at Top. Same as under Twine Ball Holder, 2B. 

References. Tinsley, "Practical and Artistic Basketry," page 19. 

White, "More Baskets and How to Make Them," front plate and 
pages 47, 48. 



FANCY BAG. The bottom of this may be started 

a. As for h of the Covered Hanging Jar. Make a mesht bag 
covering to extend well up on the bag, using Solomon's knots about 
y%" apart. Introduce new strands as needed. 

b. Make a bottom piece like woven drawn-work. Sew radiating 
strands on a circle of cardboard. (See Circular Woven Mat, Side 
Bag, Tam-o'-Shanter, 3A) and weave together adjoining groups of 
strands. 

c. A more elaborate center may be made by using a star-shapt 
scheme of Solomon's knots. Houble 6 strands of raffia, mount them 
on the y^" brass ring, and mount other strands of raffia side wise on 
these. Tie these together into star-shapt motifs until a circle of 
about 4^" has been made, then introduce a piece of round reed to 
form a corded edge around the circle, add more strands and continue 
to mesh with Solomon's knots until the bag has been made sufficiently 
deep. 

Loops for Draw-Strings. Group the strands above the mesht bag portion 

and make Solomon's knot chain pieces long enuf to double back for 

loops. Bind and sew the ends securely. 
Draw-Strings. Make 2 draw-strings with the Solomon's knot motif, run 

them thru the loops and fasten the ends as under the Solomon s Knot 

Bag. 
Lining for Bag. Make a lining of some material in harmony with the 

raffia and tack it in place. 

Reference. "Priscilla Basketry Book," pages 30, 31, 32, 33, 35. 



HAT — The top of the crown of the hat may be made as for b or c under Fancy 
Bag, and the Solomon's knot mesh continued down the side and out 
onto the brim, or more elaborate motifs with Solomon's knots may be 
used for the edge of the hat. 

Reference. "Priscilla Basketry Book," pages 34, 35. 



MATERIALS* . 

See end of Grade 1A for SEINE cord, cable cord and REED. 

MACRAM£ CORD 

Macrame is a fine, firmly twisted cotton cord. 

Origin. 

Arabia. 

Use — Arabians probably used it for 

a. binding their tents, and 

b. tying their merchandise on the backs of camels. 

Introduction into Europe. 

A. Spain and Italy, 16th century. 

1. Arabians traded spices, figs, dates, etc., with Southern Europe. 

2. Cord used to bind packages. Became known in this way. 

3. Finally imported in quantity by Italians. 
Use — for 

a. decoration in churches. 

(a) altar cloths (coarse lace and fringe) 

(b) banners (fringe). 

b. heavy fringes on ends of towels. 

B. France. 

With the trend of civilization northward, the cord next became 
known in France. 

Use — for church decoration, as with the Italians. 

C. England. 

Cord finally reacht England. , 

Use — changed — to that of home decoration. 
a. tidies, mats, mantel fringes, hand bags lined with colored silks, fringes 
for table scarfs, etc. 

Introduction into United States. 

Came to United States from Europe. 

Use — for home decoration — the same as in England. 
Was very popular until about 25 years ago. 

The year 1912 saw a revival of the use of macrame cord, this time in the 
form of heavy lace for trimming, fancy bags, etc. 

Commercial form. 

Wound in balls (large and small size). 

Place of Purchase. 

M. J. Tobin, 318 Broadway, New York City. 

White, Blue, Red, small size 5c. a ball 

Milton Bradley Co., 73 Fifth Avenue, New York City. 

Assorted Colors, large size 12c. a ball 

J. L. Hammett Co., Bush Terminal, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Assorted Colors, large size 12c. a ball 

References. Walker, "Varied Occupations in String Work," page i6o. 

International Encyclopedic Dictionary. 

See under Macrame lace. 
Webster's Dictionary. 

See under Macrame lace. 

* Prices are subject to change. Postage or expressage extra. 



MATERIALS* (Continued) 

RAFFIA 

Raffia is a thin fibrous strip varying up to about Sy^ feet in length, and to 1" in 
width. It is sword-shapt, tan in color and tuf, but capable of being split lengthwise 
into fine threads. 

From whg,t obtained. 
Raffia Palm. 
What it is. 
A tree resembling a large feather duster. 
Height— 70-80 ft. 

Trunk — bare, with huge leaves at the top. 
Leaves — feathery, from 25-50 ft. in length, and consisting of 

a. midrib. 

b. leaflets, hanging from both sides of midrib, (about 3^ ft. long, and 1" 

wide at midrib, tapering to a point). 

Where found. 

1. On the island of Madagascar (off the east coast of Africa), high up 
on the mountain sides. 

Preparation of raffia is the chief industry of Madagascar. 

2. On the east and west coasts of Africa in the swampy land. 
How collected. 

Men climb the trees, cut the leaves which are just opening, bind these 
together and drag them home, where the women complete the work. 
How prepared for use. 

1. Leaflets are stript from midrib. 

2. Skin peeled from the upper and under sides of these. 

3. These strips of skin spread in the sun to dry (cured). 
Uses. 

Native. 

For raincoats, hats, mats, cloth, etc. 
Foreign. 

a. Commercial — as tie-bands for flowers, plants, vegetables, etc. 

b. Educational — for hats, baskets, picture frames, etc. 

Introduced into the United States about 30 years ago. 
Commercial Form — How shipt. 

1. Strips braided or twisted into hanks of from 1-3 lbs. in weight. 

2. A number of these hanks bound together in a hale. 
Place of Purchase. 

Milton Bradley Co., 73 Fifth Avenue, New York City. 

Natural Color, 1 to V/i lb. bundles 20c. a lb. 

Bleached, V^ lb. bundles 20c. a lb. 

Assorted Colors (aniline dyes), Y^ lb. bundles. .15c. a bundle or 50c. a lb. 
Assorted Colors (vegetable dyes), Y^ lb. bundles. 20c. a bundle or $1.50 a lb. 
J L. Hammett Co., Bush Terminal, Brooklyn, N Y. 

Natural Color 10c, a package, 20c. a lb. 

Bleached 10c. a package, 75c. a lb. 

Assorted Colors (aniline dyes) 10c. a 2 oz. package, 50c. a lb. 

Assorted Colors (vegetable dyes) 10c. a 1 oz. package, $1.00 a lb. 

References. Report No. 9, Department of Agriculture — Dodge, "Useful Fiber 
Plants of the World." 

See under Raphia ruifia (raffia). 
Webster's Dictionary. 
See under raMa. 

* Prices are subject to change. Postage or expressage extra. 



MATERIALS* (Continued) 

OAK TAG 

Oak Tag is a stiff, heavy manilla paper. 

Commercial Form. 

Cut into sheets of various sizes. . 

Place of Purchase. 

J. L. Hammett Co., Bush Terminal, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Sheets, 9" x 12" 25c. per 100 sheets 

Milton Bradley Co., 73 Fifth Avenue, New York City. 

Sheets, 9" x 12": ; 40c. per 100 sheets 

STRAW BOARD 

Straw Board is a cheap type of "cardboard" made from straw. It is the color 
of old-fashioned butcher's paper. 

Commercial Form. ' 

Cut into sheets of various sizes. 

Place of Purchase. 

J. L. Hammett Co., Bush Terminal, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Sheets, 9" x 12" 60c. per 100 sheets 



ASH SPLINT 
Ash Splint is a long, narrow, thin woody strip obtained from the ash tree. 
How prepared for use. .... 

Narrow boards from 1" to 1^" wide and varying in length are fed under a 
planing machine. This results in thin strips the length of the boards 
(usually about 10 ft). 
Commercial Form. 

These thin strips are curved around into compact bundles, containing 25 yds. 
each, and tied. 

Place of purchase. 

Milton Bradley Co., 73 Fifth Avenue, New York City. 

White, 1^" wide, 25 yds. in roll 35c. a roll 

Colored, \" wide, 25 yds. in roll 45c.. a roll 

Colored, Yz" wide, 25 yds. in roll 40c. a roll 

J. L. Hammett Co., Bush Terminal, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

White and Colored, V2" wide, 2 oz. package 20c. 

White and Colored, 4 oz 40c. 

White and Colored, 1 lb ...$1.25 

ROUND LACES 
Round Laces are woven cotton corset laces, about 2^ yds. long. 

Commercial Form. 

Tied in bundles of a dozen or gross. 

Place of Purchase. 

Milton Bradley Co., 73 Fifth Avenue, New York City. 

Assorted Colors 25c a doz. 



Prices are subject to change. Postage or expressage extra. 



MATERIALS* (Continued) 

BRASS RINGS 



TAPESTRY NEEDLES 



*Prices are subject to change. Postage or expressage extra. 



GRADE 2B 



Course of Study 
cord, raffia and lacer work 

syllabus 

Materials. Macrame cord, cable cord, round and flat laces, raffia, 

and brass rings. 

Exercises. Knotting; shoe-string knot, four in-hand knot, weaver's 

knot, figure-eight knot, bowline knot, fisherman's knot, 
interlaced square knot, and military knot. 

Applications, Fob, girdle or fancy ornament, twine ball holder, 
hammock, crab net, tennis net and other articles. 

Time Allowed. One half hour, once a week. 



SHOE-STRING KNOT 



DIAGRAMS OF SHOE-STRING KNOT 

(Looking down upon the shoe.) 
Method A 



Method B 






SHOE-STRING KNOT 

Exercise. Shoe-string knot. ^~ 

Materials. 3^ of a round lacer. 

2 pieces of cardboard, 2x Ij^" (to represent sides of shoe). 

Preparation of Materials. 

Round Lacer — Yz length. 

Place a number of laces together even at one end. Fold them into 
thirds and cut. 

Cardboard — 2 pieces 2 x 1^". 

Use pad backs. Cut strips 2" wide, lengthwise, on the cutting machine. 
Cut these across at intervals of 1^". Prepare one piece as a guide. 
Place a dot midway on one of the 2" edges. Measure ^" in either 
direction from this and make dots. Punch holes on a line with the 
dots and ^" in from the edge. Take 3 of the little cardboard pieces 
at a time, lay the guide-piece on top of them and punch thru the upper 
holes. 

Directions. 



FOUR-IN-HAND TIE 



DIAGRAMS OF FOUR-IN-HAND TIE 
Sailors' or Four-in-Hand Knot 







FOUR-IN-HAND TIE 

Exercise. Sailor's or four-in-hand knot. 
Materials. ^ of a flat lacer*. 

Preparation of Material. 

Flat Lacer — >^ length. 

Place a number of laces together even at one end. Fold them into 
thirds and cut. Cut off all ferrule ends. 

Directions. Place the lacer around the neck, having the end to the right longer 
than the end to the left. Hold the short end in the left hand, and bind 
the long end one and a half times around it. That is, cross the long 
end over the short end, around underneath, pass it up over again, and 
down underneath. Then bring the end out forward between the two 
parts of the lacer around the neck, and finally pass the end down thru 
the last or outer binding just made. Tighten the knot by pulling on 
the long end. 

To adjust the tie — pull on the under end and slide the knot up close 
to the collar. 

To undo the tie — pull on the part of the lacer to the left around the 
neck and slide it out of the knot. 

Note. — After the children have learned to tie the Four-in-Hand around their necks, have 
them undo it and make it around a strip of cardboard, or on a piece of oak tag 
in which two holes have been punched to represent the width of the neck. 

Reference. Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," page 40. 



See end of grade. 



WEAVER'S KNOT 



DIAGRAMS OF WEAVER'S KNOT 






Thumb removed. 






Thumb removed. 



Thumb removed. 



WEAVER'S KNOT 

Exercise, Weaver's knot. 

Materials. 2 pieces of macrame cord, each 10" long, of different colors. 

Preparation of Material. 

Macrame Cord — 10" long. 

Wind the cord around a book or other object about 10" long and cut 
thru the cord at both ends. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work make single knots on the ends of 
the cords to prevent fraying.) 

Take one piece of cord in the right hand about 2" from the end, and 
the other piece in the left hand the same distance down. Place the 
cord in the right hand under that in the left and hold them where they 
cross with the thumb of the left hand. Take the long piece of cord 
hanging down to the right, turn it up to the left over the thumb, then 
behind the shorter end and forward over the thumb nail between the 
2 short ends of cord. With the right hand bend down the short end 
standing to the right, and pass it over the other cord and down thru 
the loop formed around the thumb. Tighten the knot by holding both 
this short end and the long end of the same color under the thumb, and 
pulling on the long end of the other color. (Unless this method of 
tightening the knot is used, one end will pull completely thru, and the 
knot come apart.) 

Note. — This is also called the "thumb knot" because made around the thumb. 
The weaver uses it to join the threads in the loom when they break. 

References. Hasluck, "Knotting and Splicing/' pages 20, 21. 

Jessup and Logue, ''The Handicraft Book," pages 45, 46. 

Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers," pages 12, 13. 



FIGURE-EIGHT KNOT 



FIGURE-EIGHT KNOT 



Exercise. Figure-eight knot. 
Material. ^ of a round lacer. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Ro<und Lacer — Yz length. 

Place a number of laces together even at one end. Fold them into 
thirds and cut. 

Directions. Fold the lacer in half. Place it on the desk. Cross the end to the 
right over the one to the left. Cross the end now on the right over the 
one on the left, turning it upward and finally pass the last end up thru 
the loop at the top. Draw tight, keeping the knot flat. 

Note. — This knot is much used in braid trimmings. 



Reference. Hasluck, "Knotting and Splicing'' page i6. 



DIAGRAMS OF FIGURE-EIGHT KNOT 







BOWLINE KNOT 



BOWLINE KNOT 

Exercise. Bowline knot. 

Material. 1 piece of cable cord 18" long. 

Preparation of Material. 
Cable Cord—IH" long. 

Same as for Netted Curtain, lA, except that the interval is 18". 

Directions. (Before commencing the work make single knots on the ends of 
the cords to prevent fraying.) 



FISHERMAN'S KNOT 



DIAGRAMS OF FISHERMAN'S KNOT 





First end. 



Second end. 



Knots drawn up 
ready for use. 



FISHERMAN'S KNOT 

Exercise. Fisherman's knot. 

Materials. 2 pieces of macrame cord, each 10" long, of different colors. 

Preparation of Material. 

Macrame Cord — 10" long. 

Wind the cord around a book or other object about 10" long and cut 
thru the cord at both ends. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work make single knots on the ends of 
the cords to prevent fraying.) 

Make a single knot, loose, on the end of one piece of cord. Face 
the end of the other piece toward it, and pass it down thru the loose 
single knot for a distance of about 3". Tighten the single knot around 
it. Holding the cords in the same position, tie the short end which 
passed down thru the single knot around the lower cord, also with a 
single knot. Do this by crossing the end over the lower cord, around 
underneath both cords, and then down thru the ring formed by itself. 
Tighten this single knot, and then pull on the 2 long pieces of cord 
to slide the knots together. Cut the ends short. 

Reference. Hasluck, "Knotting and Splicing/' pages 21, 22. 

Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," page 42. 



INTERLACED SQUARE KNOT FOB 



DIAGRAMS OF INTERLACED SQUARE KNOT FOB 
Interlaced Square Knot 



INTERLACED SQUARE KNOT FOB 



Exercise. Interlaced square knot. 
Materials. 



MILITARY KNOT GIRDLE 



DIAGRAMS OF MILITARY KNOT GIRDLE 
Military Knot 






MILITARY KNOT GIRDLE 

Exercises. Military knot, single or double knots. 

Material. 1 piece of cable cord 4 yds. long. 

Preparation of Material. 

Cable Cord — 4 yds. long. 

Measure off a length of 1 yd. on the cord and lap it back and forth 
3 times. Cut. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work make single knots on the ends of the 
cord to prevent fraying.) 

Fold the cord in half to find the center. Keeping the two parts of 
the cord together as one, tie a single knot 1}4" from the loop end. Roll 
up the ends into small balls for greater convenience in handling, and 
fasten them about 18" from the knot above. (See under Looping 
Chain, 2A, for method of making balls.) Run a pencil thru the loop, 
slip this down into the crack of the desk, and turn the pencil at right 
angles underneath. 

Military Knot. Take the cord on the left near the top. Turn it 
around to form a circle, with the end underneath, and facing toward the 
left. Take the cord on the right, lay it down over the circle directly in 
the center. Turn this end up to the left and pass it under the cord 
extending to the left. Turn the end around toward the right and lace it 
down under the bar of cord which lies between the 2 parts coming from 
above, and finally carry it down thru the loop to the right. All parts 
of the cord will now be completely interlaced. 

To Tighten the Knot. Place the left hand flat over the work to hold 
the cords in place, and gently pull the long cord extending to the right. 
Then change about, placing the right hand over the work, and pulling 
on the long cord to the left. Continue to do this, interchanging hands 
until the knot is almost drawn up close. Then finally draw it firm by 
pulling on both cords at once, and at the same time pulling downward 
against the 2 cords coming from the loop above. Adjust the parts of 
the knot with the fingers until they lie fiat and are uniform. The knot 
should be firm but not jammed. 

Have this first military knot form about 1^" from the single knot. 
Loosen it and move it up or down if necessary. 

Continue to make military knots at intervals of about 2", according 
to some decorative scheme. Single ones may be used — or an arrange- 
ment of first one, then two together, then one, then two together, etc., 
or two and three — ^^or two and then the 2 cords tied together as one with 
a single knot, and then two again, and then the single knot, etc. 

The girdle should be workt until it is about 9" longer than the 
waist measure. 
Finish of Girdle. Tie the 2 cords together as one with a single knot about 
ly^" below the last military knot. Then make single, double or triple 
knots on the ends for a finish. Cut the cord }i" below and fray. 

AJoTE.— This makes a particularly attractive girdle for a negligee or dressing sack. It is 
worn like a chatelaine, with the end of the girdle slipt down through the loop 
and allowed to hang loose in front. 

A strip made of these knots may also be used as a decorative band around the 
crown of a hat. 

The knot may be worked up into frogs for coats. The name, Military, is derived 
from its use for the braid frogs on soldiers' uniforms. 

References. Hasluck, ''Knotting and Splicing," (carrick bend), pages 36, 37. 
Jessup and Logue, ''The Handicraft Book," page 51. 
Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers" (double sailor's 
knot), page 17. 
Have the children practice this knot first with a one-third length of round lacer. 



MILITARY KNOT BAG 



MILITARY KNOT BAG 

Exercises. Military knot, single knots. 

Materials. 20 round laces {body part). 

1 round lacer (divided for draw-strings) . 

1 piece of cardboard. 

1 piece of macrame cord about 18" long. 

Preparation of Materials. 



TYING A PACKAGE 

This problem in not included in the Course of Study, but is of 
too practical a nature to omit. It may be given in any grade above 
3B. It is described here because related to the other knotting work. 




DIAGRAMS OF TYING A PACKAGE 
Running Noose and Stationer's Knot 

Running Noose 



I 












\ 


[ 



TYING A PACKAGE 

Exercises. Running noose and stationer's knot. 

Materials. 

Box — 1 small box, 

1 piece of wrapping paper* less wide than the height of the box, and 
long enuf almost to cover the top, go around the box and lap 
a little past the center. 

1 piece of twine* long enuf to go around the box in both directions, 
with a little extra for tying. 

Flat Package — 1 or 2 small pieces of cardboard (to represent the protective 
part for something thin being tied, — as a handkerchief, foto, pic- 
ture, jabot, etc.). 

1 piece of wrapping paper less wide than y^ of the length of the top, 
and long enuf almost to cover the top, go around the box and 
lap a little past the center. 

1 piece of twine long enuf to go around the cardboard in both direc- 
tions, with a little extra for tying. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Wrapping Paper — For box and flat package. 

Determine the size needed, mark by creasing and cut on the cutting 
machine. 

Twine — Determine the amount for each and cut. 
Directions. 



BOX 



Running Noose. Make a single knot (see Whip) lA) on the tip end of 
the twine. (This acts as a stopper to prevent the later tied part from 
slipping off. ) Hold the knotted end in the right hand, and the long 
piece of twine some distance to the left in the left hand. Tie a single 
knot with the knotted end, around the long piece. Then drop the long 
end being held in the left hand, take hold of the side of the loop near it 
instead, and tie the knotted end around this part in the form of a 
single knot. {Make the ring as small as possible before drawing the 
end thru.) Tighten the knot by pushing it down against the original 
knotted end of the twine. Have it fit close against it. Adjust the noose 
to suit the size of the package, and place the noose on the desk to the 
right. 

Paper Covering. Place the paper vertically in front of you on the desk. 
Lay the box on it in the center from side to side, and a little nearer 
toward you than away from you. Take the edge of the paper toward 
you with the thumb and first finger of each hand. Turn it up over 
the top of the box, and, pressing down meanwhile on the box, gradually 
draw the paper taut over the top until the edge of the paper almost 
reaches the opposite edge of the box. (It should never go quite to 
the edge or the paper will not lie smooth.) From here on the grip on 



* See end of grade. 



DIAGRAMS OF TYING A PACKAGE (Continued) 
Running Noose and Stationer's Knot 





Stationer's Knot. 






TYING A PACKAGE (Continued) 

paper and string must never be relaxt. Press down on the paper with 
the left hand. Raise the edge of the paper away from you with the 
right hand, draw it taut over the top of the box toward you and press 
down on it to hold it in order to bring the left hand up on top. If the 
paper has been cut the proper size in the beginning, the last edge should 
lap a little past the center. 

Adjustment of String. Pick up the noose with the right hand, raise the 
end of the box slightly, slip the noose around it, adjust it to be both 
center sidewise and endwise, and pull it tight. Keeping the string taut, 
turn it toward the right, press down on it with the left hand, and with 
the right hand fold the paper against the end of the box. {Crease well 
all folded lines of the paper to make the package look smart.) First 
turn down the paper at the top against the side of the box and crease. 
Using the right hand, thumb down, slide the thumb along the paper 
just turned over to hold it flat and crease the slanting wing edge away 
from you. Then turn the hand up, slide the first finger along the paper 
to the wing edge toward you and crease. Next fold first one and then 
the other of these 2 wing pieces in toward the center. Have them 
fit snugly against the side of the box, and while in this position run 
the fingers down along the edge of the box and crease the paper slanting 
at the bottom, Mark the bottom line of the box with the nail, turn up 
the paper, crease the lower line well, and then carry the string around 
the end of the box, tight. Turn the box upside down, bind the string 
once around the center bar, pull the string tight backward in the direc- 
tion from which it has just come until the bar is drawn a little out of 
the straight, and carry it forward again toward the other end of the 
box. Turn the box upside down, having the end not yet dealt with 
facing toward the right. Fold the paper as before. Carry the string 
up around the end to the top, shift the box so that the half bar of 
twine is away from you and finish with a stationer's knot. 

Stationer's Knot. Cross the piece of twine over the center bar and 
hold it tight to the left under the thumb of the left hand. With the 
right hand turn the cord toward the right, pass it over the top bar, 
around underneath it and out. Get a good grip on the piece of twine 
and pull it very tight, snapping it out from under the thumb of the 
left hand. Again turn up the cord to the left, hold it firmly with the 
thumb, and this time, after passing the cord over and under the bar, 
pull it thru as a loop instead of pulling the end all the way thru as 
before. As soon as a large enuf loop has been formed to grip firmly, 
pinch together both parts of the loop, and draw it tight. Adjust the 
size of the loop by pulling gently on the end, tighten it again, and cut 
off the twine, leaving an end about as long as the loop. 

FLAT PACKAGE. Prepare the running noose as for the Box. Arrange the 
paper and pieces of cardboard and proceed with the work as described 
under Paper Covering. Crease the 4 folds of paper where they extend 
beyond the package at either end. Adjust the noose, tighten it, turn it 
toward the right and hold it under the fingers of the left hand, as 
described above. 

Run the thumb nail along the end of the package to mark where 
it ends inside the paper. Hold the paper down flat with the left hand 



TYING A PACKAGE (Continued) 

where it passes over the end of the package, turn the folded edge 
which extends beyond the package on the side away from you over 
toward the center, having the folded edge parallel with the end of the 
package and ys" beyond it. {Never let this folded edge come close 
against the package or the paper will not fit smooth when it is turned 
up on top.) Crease the new slanting fold thus formed. Do the same 
with the folded part toward you. Then once more mark with the nail 
along the end of the package, turn up the paper smoothly to the top, 
crease its edge, and carry the string around the end of the package, 
tight. Turn the package upside down, bind the string once around 
the center bar, pull the string backward in the direction from which it 
has just come until the bar is drawn a little out of the straight, and 
carry it forward again toward the other end of the package. Turn 
the package upside down, having the end not yet dealt with facing 
toward the right. Fold the paper as before. Carry the string up 
around the end to the top, shift the package so that the half bar of 
twine is away from you and finish with a stationer's knot. 

Stationer s Knot. Proceed as for the Box. 

Note — There are other ways of starting the twine, folding the paper and ending the work, 
but this method gives the lightest possible package for mailing purposes, the greatest 
amount of friction on the string, hence less possibility of slipping open, and the 
easiest form of opening to undo. A pull on the last end, and a slight lifting of the 
center cords loosens up the entire twine network. Also the twine comes off in the 
form of a running noose all ready to use again. 

This form of tying is expected by the postal' authorities on all class 

matter. It enables the postman to undo the package, examine the contents where 
they are in doubt and re-tie the package in the shortest possible time. 

Reference. Hasluck, "Knotting and Splicing," pages 41, 42. 



HAMMOCK, TWINE BALL HOLDER, BAG, SPONGE BAG, 

TENNIS NET 



HAMMOCK 

Exercises. Netting (single knots to produce meshes), binding. 

Materials. 2 brass rings (^" diameter). 

12 pieces of macrame cord, each 2 yds. long, of 2 colors if desired* 
{body part). 

2 pieces of macrame cord each 1 yd. long, the color of the sides 
of the hammock (drawing-up cords). 

1 piece of macrame cord 2 yds. long, the color of the main part of 

the hammock (binding). 

2 pieces of macrame cord about 12" long, of a color different from 

the hammock (one to be used to draw the last end of the binding 
back, and the other to be used to tie the ring to the framework 
of t\he desk while knotting). 

Preparation of Material. 

Macrame Cord — 2 yds. long (body part), 1 yd. long (drawing-up cords) 
and about 12" long. 

See under Looping Chain, 2A. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work, make single knots on the ends of 
all of the cords to prevent fraying.) 

Tie one of the brass rings to the iron work at the side of the desk 
with one of the 12" pieces of cord. 

Fasten on this ring each of the 12 pieces of macrame cord, in the 
color order planned. Pass one end of each of the pieces in turn thru 
the ring, double it so that the ends are even, and holding both cords 
as one make a single knot 4}^" down from the ring. 

Meshing. Form this as under Netted Curtain, lA, making the 
knots %" below the row above each time. Continue the meshing with 
single knots until within about 8" of the other end. Always have the 
last row similar to the first row, that is, have the two cords of a color 
reunited. 

Sides of Hammock. In order later to draw up the sides of the hammock, 
take the two 1 yd. lengths of cord and lace them thru the half meshes 
at the sides of the hammock. Starting at the bottom pass one of the 
cords up thru the side half mesh, throw the cord over the edge and 
pass it up thru the next half mesh and so on until the top mesh is reacht. 
(Similar to overcasting.) Pass the end thru the ring and double it 
back about 2^". Then do the same on the opposite side of the ham- 
mock with the other cord. 

Untie the ring from the desk, and using the same short cord 
run it thru the lowest row of meshes across the hammock, and tie this 
to the desk. 

Binding — First End. Cut off the knots on the ends of the 2 yd. binding 
cord and remaining piece of 12". 

* The following color arrangements prove interesting in the Hammock: — 2 white, 8 colored, 
2 white; 1 colored, 2 white, 6 colored, 2 white, i colored; 2 colored, 2 white. 4 colored, 
2 white, 2 colored. 



HAMMOCK (Continued) 

Adjust all the strands on the ring in their original places. With 
the left hand stretch the hammock tight, and pinch together the cords 
just below the ring with the thumb and first finger. Fold the short 
cord of 12" in half, lay it on top of the strands loop end facing down 
toward the hammock and hold it under the thumb. Take one end of 
the binding cord, face it downward, and hold it also under the thumb. 
With the right hand bind the long cord very tight 5 times around the 
strands, remove the thumb, and pull on the first end of the binding cord 
to get rid of the little loop left at the beginning where the thumb held 
it. Continue to bind the long cord very tight, with the bindings crowded 
close together, until a distance of 1" has been reacht. Thread the last 
end thru the loop of cord of a different color laid in at the beginning, 
and pull on the two ends belonging -to the loop. This will draw the 
last end up under the bindings. Pull it tight, and cut off all four ends 
of cord which project above and below the binding. The first end of 
the hammock is now finisht. 

Untie the short cord which is holding the opposite end of the 
hammock against the desk, slip it thru the ring of the finisht end and 
again tie it to the desk. 

Binding — Last End. Arrange all the strands parallel, hold them together 
as a flat mass and pass them thru the remaining brass ring. Double 
them back until the distance from the ring to the nearest row of knots 
is exactly equal to that of the first end (4^"). Then gently pull on 
first one and then the other of the 1 yd. cords laced up the sides of 
the hammock, until the hammock drawj^ up slightly. Get both of these 
alike. Lay in the short loop of cord of a different color and proceed 
with the binding for a distance of 1" as at the first end, making the 
binding extra tight. Draw the last end back up under the binding and 
cut all ends away. Do this by selecting one hanging piece of cord 
at a time, pulling it tight, slipping the scissors up on it and cutting it 
close against the binding. (Do not try to cut thru a large number of 
ends at a time, as some of the hammock strands may also be cut or the 
ends show too much below the binding.) 

Note. — Real cord hammocks are netted with the siene knot, and workt with a needle from 
one side downward to the other. For doll use, however, the above method answers 
and is simpler. 

The Hammock, when finisht, should be about 22" long. It may be made more 
realistic by soaking a piece of No. 5 round reed, curving it slightly and notching it 
at the ends to serve as a hammock stick. 



References. Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," page 56. 

Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers," pages 13, 14, 15. 



TWINE BALL HOLDER 



Exercises. Cinch knot, netting (single knots to produce meshes), and various 
knots for finish. 

Materials. 1 brass ring (^" diameter) (bottom). 
1 brass ring (^" diameter) (top). 
12 strands of raffia, of 2 colors if desired* (body part). 

(Choose pieces that are long, quite heavy ancl uniform in size.) 
1 strand of raffia (binding). 
1 ball of twine. 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 
1 pin. 

Preparation of Material. 

RaMa— 12 strands, of 2 colors. 

Stroke each piece in the hand from the broad end downward 
until all harshness is removed. 

Directions. Double in turn each of the 12 strands of raffia until the heaviest 
and most uniform parts are about 14" long. Put the strands on the 
ring with cinch knots (see Curtain, lA), having the knots all the same 
side up, and following the color arrangement planned. Tighten each 
cinch knot against the ring by pulling on the 2 strands and pressing 
the knot up into place with the nails. Let the strands radiate from 
the ring, place it flat on the knee and pin it firmly by running the pin 
down into the cloth in the center and then out again over the ring. 
(See Diagrams of Solomon's Knot Bag, 2A). 

Meshing. Start with the 2 raffia strands coming from the cinch 
knot nearest to you. Hold both as one and make a single knot y%" from 
the ring. Continue to make these single knots around the ring ^" 
down, unpinning and shifting the ring when necessary in order always 
to work directly toward you. Proceed with the meshing by uniting 
half of one group with half of the adjoining group for the second row, 
then reuniting the strands of the original color in the third row, and so 
on. (For details of meshing see Netted Curtain, lA.) Continue the 
rows of meshing until the bag part is large enuf to hold the ball of 
twine, — i. e., until the meshing comes on a line with the top of the ball. 
The last row must always be a row in which the 2 strands of a color 
are reunited, after being separated. 

Finish of Strands. Group the strands in twos, threes or fours above the 
meshing and knot at intervals. Do not start the knotting any closer 
than 13^" to 2" from the last row of meshing or the twine ball holder 
may become too narrow to slip the ball in. The following are some 
suggested schemes for the knotting: 

a. Make single knots (Grade lA) 2y^" above the last row, usin^ 
the same 2 strands that were knotted below. Leave a space of 3^". 
Unite the 2 adjoining sets of strands (4 pieces) with a Solomon's knot 



The following color proportions prove interesting in the Twine Ball Holder: — 3, i, etc. 
2, 2, etc. ; 4, 2, etc. 



TWINE BALL HOLDER (Continued) 

chain (Grade 2A) for a distance of %". Leave a space of ^". Knot 
the same. 4 strands with a single knot. 

b. Unite 2 adjoining sets of strands (4 pieces) with the looping 
chain (Grade 2A), starting 2" up and continuing for 1". 

c. Unite 2 adjoining sets of strands (4 nieces) with the Solomon's 
knot chain (Grade 2A) or see-saw knot chain (Grade IB), starting 
lYi" up and continuing for l]// . 

d. Unite 2 adjoining sets of strands (4 pieces) with a single 
knot 2" up. Leave a space of 2^". Unite 2 of these adjoining groups 
(8 pieces) in a bannister bar chain (Grade 2A) for ^". 

e. Unite 2 adjoining sets of strands (4 pieces) with a single 
knot 23^" up. Leave a space of j^". Tie a single knot on these same 
strands. Leave a space of 1^". Unite 2 adjoining groups (8 pieces) 
with single knots. 

Finish of Top of Holder. Gather together all of the strands at the top and 
finish with some form of loop or ring. 

a. Pass the strands thru a ^" brass ring, double them back, 
thread the tapestry needle with a piece of fine but tuf raffia, bind this 
firmly around the strands for a distance of ^" up and down below 
the ring, sew back and forth thru the strands, and finally cut the ends 
close under the binding. This is merely a ruf binding. Then cover 
this with a carefully made binding of ^", using a piece of raffia about 
y^" wide and wrapping it flat like a ribbon around the strands. Fasten 
the last end by sewing down under the bindings. Loop over the ring 
with a fine piece of raffia. (See Solomon's Knot Bag, 2A.) 

b. Make a loop out of the strands at the top by working a 
Solomon's knot chain or looping chain piece long enuf to double back. 
Bind and sew this securely to the other side, cut the ends, and cover 
the work with a smooth binding of Y^" . 

Note — The Tivine Ball Holder, when finisht, should be about 11" long. 

This Holder may also be made like a bag. starting it with loops at the top, meshing 
the body, and gathering it together into one mass at the bottom. A single draw 
string run in at the top serves as the means of suspension. 



References. White, "How to Make Baskets ^ page 15 and plate just before it. 
Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers^ pages 23, 26, 27. 



BAG 



Exercise. Netting (single knots to produce meshes). 

Materials. tl2 brass rings {}4" diameter) if desired. 

24 piece of seine cord, macrame cord, round laces or raffia 1% yds. 
long (body part). 
2 pieces of the same for draw-strings. 

1 piece of cardboard or other stiff material on which to work the 
bag. 

Preparation of Materials. 

In general, like that under Hammock and Military Knot Bag, 
2B, and Solomon's Knot Bag, 2A. 

Directions. Proceed as for the Military Knot Bag, 2B, except that single knots 
are to be used for the meshes. Make these j4" in size. 



References. Walker, "Varied Occupations in String Work," page 13. 
Jessup and Logue, "The Handicraft Book," pages 31, 32. 
White, "How to Make Baskets," pages 12, 13, 14 and plate. 
James, "How to Make Indian and Other Baskets," page 56. 
Sage and Cooley, "Occupations for Little Fingers" page 23. 



SPONGE BAG 



Exercises. Cinch knot, netting (single knots to produce meshes), binding, 
looping. 

Materials. 1 piece of flat reed (^" width) 45" long (foundation). 
24 pieces of macrame cord, each 1 yd. long {body part). 
1 piece of macrame cord 15 yds. long (binding). 
1 brass ring (%" diameter). 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Flat Reed — 45" long (foundation). 

Same as under Baby's Rattle, 2A. 

Macrame Cord — 1 yd. long (body part) and 15 yds. long (binding). 

Same as for Looping Chain, 2A, only cut the cords at both ends 
to make the 1 yd. lengths, and lap the other cord back and forth 14 
times. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work, make single knots on the ends of 
the cords to prevent fraying.) 

Reed Foundation. Curve the piece of reed around twice on itself 
until the ends lap about 1^". Bind the lapt ends firmly with white 
thread, and then bind spirally around lihe ring to keep the two parts 
of reed together. 

Cut off the single knot at one end of the 15 yd. piece of cord, 
lay the end against the reed foundation ring, bind over it and continue 
around the ring to the place of beginning. Make the bindings tight and 
very close together. Fasten the last end by drawing it back under the 
work with the tapestry needle. 

Double in turn each of the 24 strands and mount them on the 
ring with cinch knots about 1" apart. 

Meshing. For the first row, divide half of one group and half of 
the adjoining group, and unite these 2 strands with a single knot \" 
down from the ring. For the second row, tie together again the 2 
strands separated in the first row, making the mesh 1", and so continue 
until a depth of about 8" has been reacht. (For further details of 
meshing see Netted Curtain, lA.) 

Bottom of Bag. Gather the bag together into one mass at the bottom and 
bind it firmly for ^" with a piece of macrame cord. (See binding of 
Hammock.) Drop this down into the bag to become the wrong side. 

Ring. Using a piece of macrame cord, cover the brass ring with the looping 
stitch (see Solomon's Knot Bag, 2A) and fasten it securely to the top 
of the reed foundation ring by binding thru it and around the ring 
several times. Fasten with the tapestry needle. 

Handle. Another way of suspending the sponge bag would be to make 
3 chains of either single chain-stitch (Grade lA), see-saw knot (Grade 
IB), looping at intervals (Grade 2A) or Solomon's knot at intervals 
(Grade 2A) (see draw-strings of Solomon's Knot Bag, 2A), and to 
attach these to the reed foundation ring at three equi-distant places. 
The chains should then be fastened together, loose, at the center. 



TENNIS NET 

Exercises. Cinch knot, netting (single knots to produce meshes). 

Materials. 2 pieces of seine cord, each 2 yds. long (top and bottom supports). 
56 pieces of macrame cord, each 24" long (body part). 

1 piece of cardboard about 6" wide and as long as possible. 
About 30 paper fasteners. 
1 pin. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Seine Cord — 2 yds. long {top and bottom support). 
Same as for Looping Chain, 2A. 

Macrame Cord — 24" long (body part). 

Same as for Whip, lA, making the length 24". 

Cardboard — 6" wide and length of sheet. 

(Cardboard comes usually 22"x28".) Cut a strip 6" wide parallel 
with the length of the sheet. 

Directions. (Before commencing the work, make single knots on the ends of 
the cords to prevent fraying.) 

Measure in 15" from the end of one of the pieces of seine cord. 
Mark this with a pin. Take in turn each of the 56 pieces of macrame 
cord, fold each in half, and, starting at the place of the pin, mount each 
on the seine cord }i" apart. 

Stretch out the cord strip, place it lengthwise on the cardboard 
near the top edge with the first set of macrame ends well to the left, 
and fasten the seine cord to the cardboard at intervals with paper 
fasteners. This gives a secure line against which to pull as the knotting 
is carried out. 

Meshing. Same as under Sponge Bag, except that the distance 
down for the uniting of the strands is to be ^". Continue the meshing 
until a depth of 5^" has been reacht. Then take out the paper 
fasteners, shift the seine cord along, secure it again with the fasteners, 
and knot the remaining cords in the same way. 

Finish. Lay the other piece of seine cord along the cardboard just below 
the last row of knots, stretch it tight and fasten it temporarily at the 
ends of the cardboard with paper fasteners. Take the 2 ends of cord 
coming from one of the knots, pass one end behind the seine cord, hold 
the 2 as one and tie a single knot close up against the seine cord. Make 
the knot tight and cut off the ends close below the knot. Continue 
to tie the pairs of cords around the seine cord all the way across the 
tennis net. Finally remove all paper fasteners. 

Reference. Walker, "Varied Occupations in String Work," page 122. 



MATERIALS* 

See end of Grade 1A for SEINE CORD, cable cord and flat reed. 
See end of Grade 2 A for macrame cord, raffia, oak tag. straw 

BOARD, ROUND LACES. BRASS RINGS and TAPESTRY NEEDLES. 

FLAT LACES 



* Prices are subject to change. Postage or expressage extra. 



THIRD YEAR 

Grades 3A and 3B 



GRADE 3A 

Course of Study 

RAFFIA AND LACER WORK {Boys and Girls) SEWING {Girls) 

SYLLABUS 

Materials. Round and flat laces, raffia, tapestry needles, thimbles. 

Exercises. Braiding; plaiting; circular weaving. 

Applications. Braided mats, hats, baskets, whiskbroom holder; plaited 
girdles; mats, side bags, tam-o'-shanters of circular 
weaving, and other articles. 

SEWING {Girls^ 

Materials. Canvas, worsted, tapestry needles, thimbles, Shaker 
flannel, cotton wadding. 

Exercises. Elementary stitches. {Overcasting, basting, running^ 

Applications. Canvas penwiper, mat, pincushion or other articles. 

Time Allowed. One hotcr, once a week. 



BRAIDED MAT. HAT. BASKET. WHISKBROOM HOLDER 



DIAGRAMS OF BRAIDED MAT, HAT, BASKET. 
WHISKBROOM HOLDER 

Braiding and Overhanding Stitch 



BRAIDED MAT. HAT. BASKET, WHISKBROOM HOLDER 



Exercises. Braiding, overhanding. 

Materials. 16 or more strands of raffia (body part). 

About 4 strands of raffia (split for thread). 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 
1 thimble. 

Preparation of Material. 

Raffia. 16 or more strands. 

Soften each piece of raffia by stroking it in the hand from the broad 
end downward. 

Directions. Place together even at the top about 8 strands of medium-size raffia, 
broad end up. Make a single knot near the top to unite these. Slip 
the knot into the crack of the desk. Separate the strands into 3 equal 
parts, splitting them where necessary to make the amounts equal. 

Braiding. Hold the left hand strand in the palm of the left hand 
with the third and fourth fingers. Hold the middle strand between 
the thumb and first finger of the left hand. Pull these taut. With the 
right hand, pick up the right hand strand, cross it over the center 
strand, slip it between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, — 
and draw the strand now on the right out tight at right angles. Put 
the thumb of the right hand over it to hold it. (The center and right 
hand strand have now changed places.) Take the left hand strand in 
the left hand, cross it over the center strand, slip it between the thumb 
and first finger of the right hand, — and draw the strand now on the 
left out tight at right angles. Put the thumb of the left hand over it to 
hold it. (The center and left hand strand have now changed places.) 
Continue to braid, crossing the strand on the right over the center one, 
holding it tight, and pulling the strand now on the right out at right 
angles, and then changing to the left hand strand and using it in the 
same way. The strands must be kept taut thruout, and the outside ones 
pulled at right angles in order to get a firm braid. While the braid- 
ing is in progress keep constantly combing out the long strands with 
the fingers to prevent tangling. They have a tendency to interweave 
below. 

Joining. When the raffia commences to get thin on any strand, or becomes 
short, introduce new pieces. Braid until the thin or shorter strand is 
in the center. Lay a new piece of raffia on this, broad end up, hold it 
in with the rest of the pieces of raffia forming the center strand, and 
continue the braiding. (The broad ends will project. These are 
trimmed off later.) 

Note — Never cut oif the ends of raifia where a joining is to be made. Let the strands run 
out irregularly just as they occur. This makes possible a graduated joining which 
will not show. Stumpy ends could not be managed. 

Continue to braid until a strip about Z yds. long has been made. 
(During the time that this is being braided, the length may be tempo- 
rarily shortened in the desk by forming a slip knot in the braid (see 
under Curtain, lA), running a pencil thru this and sliding it down 
into the crack of the desk with the pencil underneath at right angles. 

The braid is now ready to he sewed into shape. Before doing this 
carry out the following Drills: 

While giving the Drills, watch the children carefully, correct imme- 
diately any awkward way of holding or using the needle, thimble and 
thread. Bad habits once acquired are difficult to break. 

Explain the object of each exercise. 

Have the children work in unison. 



BRAIDED MAT, HAT, BASKET, WHISKBROOM HOLDER 

(Continued) 

DRILL NO. 1 

Purpose. To enable the children to bend their fingers easily. 

Suggested Questions. "Which are the fingers?'' "Which is the palm oi 
your hand?" 

1. Raise both hands. 

2. Bend all fingers toward the palm. 

3. Open hands. 

4. Bend, etc. 

DRILL NO. 2 
Purpose. To review the names of the fingers and to help make them supple. 

Suggested Questions. "By what names are the fingers known?" {thumb, 
first, second, middle or captain finger, — third and fourth fingers.) 

1. Raise right hand. 

2. Bend thumb. Open it. Bend. Open. 

3. Bend first finger. Straighten it. Bend. Straighten. 

4. Bend second, middle or captain finger. Straighten it. Bend. 

Straighten. 

5. Bend third and fourth fingers, straighten. Bend. Straighten. 

DRILL NO. 3 

Purpose. To teach the position and motion of the fingers while sewing. 

1. Raise right hand. 

2. Meet thumb and first finger (round window). 

3. Open. 

4. Close, etc. 

5. Bend middle finger (someone looking thru window). 

6. Straighten middle finger. 

7. Bend, etc. 

DRILL NO. 4 

Purpose. To teach the position of the thimble and needle. 

Suggested Questions {as an introduction to the distribution of thimbles 
and tapestry needles). "What do we need to help make the needle go 
the material?" "On which finger should the thimble be worn?" {middle 
or captain finger of right hand.) "What is the German name for 
thimble?" {fingerhut — finger hat.) 
Note — Fit the thimbles carefully. (The tip of the finger should not touch the top.) 
Teach side and top of thimble. 

The eye of the needle should rest against the top of the thimble when in use. 
(This position is necessary for a young child whose fingers are short, or one 
juift beginning to sew. ) 

1. Raise right hand. 

2. Meet thumb and first finger. Drop third and fourth fingers. 

3. Take thimble from desk with left hand. 

4. Place it on upright middle finger. 

5. Take needle in left hand, and hold it in horizontal position with 

eye turned toward the right. 

6. Place needle between thumb and first finger of right hand. 

7. Bend back the middle finger. 

8. Rest eye of needle on end of thimble. 

DRILL NO. 5 

Purpose. To teach the motion of the thimble finger. 

1. Push needle forward. 

2. Push it back (with first finger of left hand). 

3. Push it forward. 

4. Push it back, etc. 

DRILL NO. 6 
Purpose. To thread the needle. 
\. Bend back the broader end of the piece of rafha to form a flat loop. 
Hold this between thumb" and first finger of left hand. 

2. With right hand press eye of needle over loop. 

3. Draw rafiia thru with fingers of left hand. 



BRAIDED MAT. HAT, BASKET. WHISKBROOM HOLDER 

(Continued) 

Sewing and Shaping Braid. 
Beginning. 



PLAITED GIRDLE 



DIAGRAMS OF PLAITED GIRDLE 
Plaiting 



PLAITED GIRDLE 

Erercises. Plaiting, knotting. 

Materials. 5, 7, 9, 11 or 13 round laces {uneven number needed). (These make 
girdles of yi", yk" , Ya , J/g' or 1" in width respectively.) 
1 piece of cardboard (support). 

Preparation of Materials. 

Round Laces. 

Same as under Solomons Knot Girdle, 2A. 

Cardboard. 

Same as under Solomon s Knot Girdle, 2A. 

Directions. 



CIRCULAR WOVEN MAT. SIDE BAG, TAM-O'SHANTER 



DIAGRAMS OF CIRCULAR WOVEN MAT 
Weaving 



CIRCULAR WOVEN MAT. SIDE BAG. TAM-O'-SHANTER 

Exercises. Weaving, binding or looping. 

Materials. 

Mat and Side Bag — 1 piece of cardboard 1" larger than the diameter of the circle 
desired (loom). 

About 18 strands of raffia (several colors if decorative bands 
are to be made). 

1 ruler. 

1 compass. 

1 pencil. 

1 large-head pin (for punching holes). 

1 tapestry needle No. 20. 

1 thimble. 

Tarn - O'-Shanter — 1 piece of cardboard (loom) as above. 
About 18 strands of worsted. 
Ruler, compass, etc., as above. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Cardboard — (Strawboard or tuf pad back will do). 

Cut squares of cardboard on the cutting machine 1" larger than 
the diameter of the circle (45/^"-|-l"=5^"). Measure with the ruler 
to find the center of one of these (2^"-]-^^"). Set the compass feet 
the proper distance apart for the radius (2^"-|-iV")> place the foot 
on the center spot and draw a circle. Set the compass feet exactly ^4" 
apart and mark off this interval around the circumference of the circle. 
This should give 19 dots. (An uneven number must be planned for.) 
Prick thru these dots with the large-head pin and also the center mark. 

Place this loom, which has just been prepared, over two or three 
more squares of cardboard, and prick with the pin thru the holes. Con- 
tinue to do as many as may be needed. Pile them together and fasten 
them with an elastic. 

Raffia. Same as under Braided Mat, Hat, Basket, Whiskhroom Holder. 

Worsted. 

Untwist and open out the skein of worsted, remove any binding 
cords and cut thru the entire skein at one place. Tie raffia or macrame 
cord around the worsted in two or three places. 

Directions. 

MAT, SIDE BAG. 



PENWIPER, MAT, PINCUSHION 



DIAGRAMS OF PENWIPER 
Overcasting, Basting, Running 



PENWIPER. MAT. PINCUSHION 



Exercises. Overcasting, basting, running. 

Materials. 

Penwiper — 1 square of canvas* 3^"x3^". 

2 pieces of Shaker flannel* Syz'xSyz". 

3 pieces of worsted. 

1 tapestry needle No. 20. 
1 thimble. 

Mat — 1 square of canvas 6"x6". 

5 pieces of worsted. 

1 tapestry needle No. 20. 
1 thimble. 

Pincushion — 2 squares of canvas 3%"x3%". 

6 pieces of worsted. 

Some cotton wadding* (for stuffing). 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 
1 thimble. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Canvas — 3}i"x3^" and 6"x6". 

(The canvas comes double width, 2 yds. wide.) Cut off the sel- 
vages two or three holes in from the edge. Use shears. Cut exactly in 
the center of the holes. Then very carefully cut the canvas the required 
sizes. Place the pieces together in piles and tie with strips of selvage. 

Shaker Flannel — 3>^"x3>4". 

(Shaker flannel comes 27" wide.) Tear off the selvages, lay the 
flannel out flat on a desk, measure 7" along one side, turn up this piece 
smoothly and evenly on the rest of the material, pick up the material at 
both edges at the 7" mark and lap it back and forth several times. Get 
it smooth and even at the edges. Cut the flannel across on the folds, 
both at the top and bottom. Lift off a few of these strips, divide them 
in half at the edge, fold the flannel even and cut across on the fold. 
Then cut squares of 3^" from these strips, lapping them back and forth. 
Discard the small piece left over. Bundle the pieces together and tie 
with selvage. {The flannel is too sleazy to be torn.) 

Worsted. 

Same as for Circular Woven Mat, Side Bag and Tam-o'-Shanter. 

Cotton Wadding. 

(This comes in a roll.) Pull the cotton free in soft masses as 
needed. 

Directions. 

PENWIPER. Before commencing the work review the Drills, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 
5 under Braided Mat, Hat, Basket, Whiskhroom Holder. Follow these 
with the Drills given below. 

* See end of grade , ■_ . . 



PENWIPER. MAT, PINCUSHION (Continued) 

DRILL NO. 6 

Purpose. To thread the needle. 

L Bend one end of the worsted over to form a loop. Hold this be- 
tween thumb and first finger of left hand. 

2. Take tapestry needle and run it thru the loop, pressing it upward to 

stretch the worsted. 

3. Grip the loop of worsted close to the needle with the nails of the 

thumb and first finger of left hand. 

4. Draw needle out and press eye over tiny loop. 

5. Draw worsted thru with fingers of left hand. 

DRILL NO. 7 

Purpose. To hold the work and practice the stitch with the worsted and needle, 

but without a knot. 

Suggested Questions. "What work does the right hand do in sewing?" 
"The left hand?" 

1. Take piece of canvas from desk with right hand. Place an edge of 

it over first and middle fingers of left hand, letting it be out 
near the tips of the fingers. Bend these fingers slightly. Hold 
canvas in position with thumb in front and third finger in back. 

2. Hold needle between thumb and first finger of right hand, eye of 

needle against top of thimble. 

3. Point needle toward chest. 

4. Run needle in one of the holes of the canvas and out in another, 

taking a stitch. Push needle thru with thimble. 

5. Pull needle out with thumb and first finger. 

Note — Only two movements should he made in taking a stitch. The needle should be run 
in and out and pushed up with the thimble, as one, — and then draivn out, as two. 
The tendency of the children is to make three moz'ements, removing the thimble from 
the needle before it is pushed far enuf thru, thus making it necessary again to touch 
the eye of the needle zvith the thimble before pulling it out. 

DRILL NO. 8 

Purpose. To make a knot. 

1. Use a single knot. Take hold of worsted in left hand about 2 inches 

from end. 

2. With right hand make a ring or loop by crossing end over worsted 

held in left hand. 

3. Draw end thru ring toward you. 

4. Pull medium tight, pushing knot up so that it will form at the end, 

and cutting off any piece of worsted that projects beyond. 

Elementary Stitches. 

Overcasting. (For use and meaning of the name of the stitch see 
Overcasting, 3B.) 

Sew from right to left. Hold the upper right hand corner of the 
canvas between the thumb and first finger of the left hand. Count 2 
holes down and 2 holes in. Run the needle up from the under side thru 
this corner hole. Throw the worsted over the top away from you, and 
pointing the needle slightly toward the left, take a stitch 2 holes deep 



PENWIPER, MAT. PINCUSHION (Continued) 



and 2 to the left (skipping one hole between). Draw the needle and 
worsted thru until a stitch slanting upward toward the left forms in a 
firm way on the edge. Do not pull it too tight. (If the worsted should 
catch at the edge so that the stitch does not slant exactly midway 
between the 2 holes below from which the worsted comes, adjust it with 
the needle or fingers.) Continue taking overcasting stitches to the left, 
2 holes deep, and 1 hole skipped — until within one or two holes of the 
corner. The stitches should all slant alike. 



Turning of Corner. 



MATERIALS 
See end of Grade 2 A for RAFFIA, ROUND laces, strawboard and 

TAPESTRY NEEDLES. 

See end of Grade 2B for FLAT LACES. 



THIMBLES 



CANVAS 



WORSTED 



SHAKER FLANNEL 



COTTON WADDING 



GRADE 3B 

Course of Study 

RAFFIA AND WEAVING (Boys and Girls) SEWING {Girls) 

SYLLABUS 

Materials. Twine, raffia, tapestry needles, thimbles, looms, warp- 
ing, rug yarn. 

Exercises. Indian basketry stitches: Lazy Squaw, Mariposa and 
Navajo; weaving; chair caning. 

Applications. Sewn mats and baskets of raffia; rugs and other woven 
articles; chair caned. 

SEWING {.Girls) 

Materials. Canvas, linen floss, tapestry needles, thimbles, white 
flannel, unbleached muslin, muslin, calico, colored 
thread, white thread, coarse and fine sewing needles. 

Exercises. Elementary stitches. {^Blanket stitch, backstitch, cross-stitch) 

Applications. Canvas needlebook, pencil case or other articles; button 
bag. 

Time Allowed. One hour, once a week. 



Note — In this grade pupils should be led to see the connection between the twined weaving 
of Grade 2A, the braiding, plaiting and circular weaving exercises of Grade 3A, and 
the more advanced work of weaving a fabric on a loom in the present grade. 
The intricacies of manufacture are too difficult at this time, but warp, woof and 
selvage, heddle, shuttle and lay may be taught, and a very definite interest in 
textiles created. 



SEWED BASKETRY: MAT, TRAY. BASKET 



DIAGRAMS OF SEWED BASKETRY: MAT, TRAY. BASKET 

Indian Stitches 



Lazy Squaw or Strap Stitch 




Mariposa, Knot, Tied or Lace Stitch. 




SEWED BASKETRY: MAT. TRAY, BASKET 

Exercises. Indian Stitches: Lazy Squaw, Mariposa, Navajo. 

Materials. 

Indian Stitches {practice zvork) — 9 pieces of round reed No. 4 or 5, 3" long. 

1 piece of twine (^" diameter) 18" long. 
10 pieces of raffia, of 2 colors. 

1 tapestry needle No. 20. 

1 thimble. 

Mat. Tray, Basket — 1 piece of twine {]/%" diameter) 5 yds. long {foundation) 
Raffia of 2 or more colors. 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 
1 thimble. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Round Reed, No. 4 or 5 — 3" long. 

Same as for Whip, lA, using a 3" measurement. 

Tivine — 18" long, and 5 yds. long. 

For the 18" length, bind the twine around a board, desk, back of 
chair or other support which will give about this length, and cut the 
twine at both ends ; or bind the twine around a book about 9" long and 
cut it at one end. 

For the 5 yd. length, fasten 2 thumb tacks 1 yd. apart on the ledge 
of the blackboard, teacher's desk or table, or lay a yard ruler in a flat 
position. Measure off the twine 5_times on this and cut. Prepare as 
many as needed. Wind the lengths into small balls up to within ^ yd. 
of the other end and fasten with slip knots. (See under See-Saiv 
Knot Ohain, IB.) 

RafHa. 

Same as under Bookmark, 2A. 

Directions. 

INDIAN STITCHES— 

Lasy Squaw or Strap Stitch. 



DIAGRAMS OF SEWED BASKETRY: MAT, TRAY. BASKET 

(Continued) 

Indian Stitches 
Mariposa, Knot, Tied or Lace Stitch (Continued) 



SEWED BASKETRY: MAT. TRAY. BASKET (Continued) 



NEEDLE BOOK, PENCIL CASE, CARD CASE, ETC. 



DIAGRAMS OF NEEDLEBOOK 
Blanket Stitch, Backstitch, Cross-Stitch, Bookbinding Stitch 

Blanket Stitch. 



NEEDLE BOOK, PENCIL CASE, CARD CASE, ETC. 

Exercises. Elementary stitches : blanket stitch, backstitch, cross-stitch and book- 
binding stitch. 

Materials. 

Needlebook — 1 piece of canvas 5^"^x354 "• 

2 pieces of white flannel 5"x3". 
About 7 pieces of linen floss. 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 
1 thini'ble. 

Pencil Case — 1 piece of canvas 16"xl2^". 
About 7 pieces of linen floss. 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 
1 button. 
1 thimble. 

Card Case — 1 piece of canvas 9j^"x4^". 
About 9 pieces of linen floss. 
1 tapestry needle No. 20. 
1 thimble. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Canvas— Sy4"yi3y4", 16"x2>^" and 9>^"x4>4". 

See under Mat, Penwiper, Pincushion, 3A 

White Flannel — 5'''x3". 

(The white flannel comes 26" wide.) 



SEWING 



GENERAL AIMS 

1. To train the mind thru the hand. 

a. To necessitate the exercise of judgment and reasoning. 

b. To quicken observation and aid in the development of concentration. 

c. To exercise the imaginative powers and memory. 

d. To appeal to and develop the aesthetic side of a child's nature thru the 

medium of color, in threads, materials, etc. ; and of form, in dress 
and decoration. 

2. To co-ordinate bodily and mental activity. To make ^.I'pression the natural 

outcome of impression. 

3. To develop muscular control and make possible finer, more delicate move- 

ments. To give dexterity. 

4. To cultivate habits of industry ; a love of work. 

5. To foster a feeling of independence. To make the child resourceful. To 

develop initiative. 

6. To induce cleanliness, neatness and accuracy. 

7. To emphasize the value of economy. 

8. To prepare the child for practical life, thus serving a utilitarian purpose. 

9. To bring about an appreciation of the dignity of labor and to inspire respect 

for intelligently executed work. 

10. To give the child a knowledge of the industrial world thru the study of 

textiles. 

11. To serve as a slight recreation after some of the more exacting school 

studies. 



Note. — The position of the pupil is a most important part of the sewing lesson, 
and should at all times be carefully watched. The children should sit 
with the lower part of the spine touching the back of the seat, feet 
resting on the floor, shoulders erect, heads slightly bent, liqht falling 
over the left shoulder. 

Insist on cleanliness at all times. 



BASTING 



BASTING 



Exercise. Even basting stitch. 



Materials. 1 piece unbleached muslin* 6"x2^". 
Needle No. 7 (''sharp"). 
Colored thread No. 50. 
2 white cards 3^"x25^". 
Thimble. 
Tapemeasure*. 
Scissors. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Unbleached Muslin — 6"x2;^ ". 

(The unbleached muslin is 36" wide.) Tear off both selvages, 
measure 12" along one side, lap the muslin back and forth a number of 
times, make cuts at the folds at the ends, fold the material in half 
between these, cut thru the doubled folds, — and then tear the material 
across into strips. These will be 6" along the warp and the full w^idth of 
the material across (36"). Take each strip in turn, fold it in half, quar- 
ters, eighths and sixteenths. Make cuts at the folds and tear down. 
This gives pieces 2^4" wide. Place a large number of these together 
even in a pile, pull off the loose threads and tie with a strip of selvage. 

Colored Thread. 

In order to avoid having the children constantly come forward to 
take a piece of thread from the spools at the front of the room, give 
out a small quantity (about 3 yds.) of each color and have this wound 
in neat form on a card used double for strength. Cut off the corners 
of the card a tiny amount slanting to prevent their gradually wearing 
mussy, and make short slanting slits at the edge of the cord near the 
wound thread to slip the last ends in (as on a spool). 

White Cards. 

Kindergarten sewing cards 7"x5" will answer the purpose. Cut 
these on the cutting machine in halves and quarters. Pile them together 
and fasten with an elastic. 

Tap erne asure. 

(The tapemeasures are 45" in length.) Cut off pieces about 4" 
long for individual use. Start to cut on the 4^" mark, then 8>4", then 
12^", then 16^", etc., until the other end of the tapemeasure is almost 
reacht. Turn the measure over, cut on the 4^" mark and discard the 
remaining short piece. Place together a number of these and fasten 
with an elastic. 

Note — Before taking up the work on Basting have the children renew the Finger Drills. 
No. I thru 5, as given in Grade 3A under Braided Mats, Hats, Baskets, etc. Then 
add the Drills given below : 

DRILL NO. 6 

Purpose. To prepare a length of thread for sezving. 

1. With left hand pick up spool or cord on w^hich the thread has been 

wound. 

2. Unwind a sufficient amount to reach from shoulder to shoulder. 

(Measure.) 

3. Cut. 

* See end of grade. 



DIAGRAMS OF EVEN BASTING 






Ending — 

First Stitch. 



Ending — 

Final Stitch. 



Joining. 





BASTING (Continued) 

DRILL NO. 7 

Purpose. To thread the needle. 

1. Wind the cut end of thread around first finger of right hand and 

break it. 

2. Roll the broken end of thread between thumb and first finger of 

right hand so as to point it. 
{Never allow the pupil to wet the end of the thread. The moisture 
from the fingers will he suificient.) 

3. Hold thread in right hand between first finger and thumb, y^" from 

the end. 

4. Hold needle vertically between first finger and thumb, with eye 

turned toward you. 

5. Rest hands together and pass thread thru eye of needle. 

6. Draw thread thru with fingers of right hand. 

Note — As the needles are threaded let the children hold the thread above their heads, taking 
an end in each hand. Count tzmnty. Note how many are threaded. Count less 
next attempt. 

DRILL NO. 8 

Purpose. To hold the zvork and practice the stitch zvith the needle and thread, 

hut without a knot. 

1. Hold left hand horizontally, palm down. Place together the first 

and middle fingers. 

2. Lay strip of material vertically over these with the edge out near 

the tips of the fingers. Have just enuf of the material away 
from you to be held under the third finger, and the rest forward 
under the thumb. 

3. Bend first and middle fingers slightly and spread them a little. 

4. Hold needle between thumb and first finger of right hand, eye of 

needle against top of thimble. 

5. Point needle toward chest. 

6. Run needle in and out of material, taking a stitch about %" in length. 

Push needle thru with thimble. 

7. l^ull needle out with thumb and first finger. 

Note — Only two movements should he made in taking a stitch. The needle should be run 
in and out and pushed up zmth the thimble, as one, — and then drawn out, as two. 
The tendency of the children is to make three movements, removing the thimble 
from the needle before it is pushed far enuf thru, thus making it necessary again to 
touch the eye of the needle zvith the thimble before pulling it out. 

DRILL NO. 9 

Purpose. To make a knot. 

L Run needle in left side of dress, point down. 

2. Take hold of tip end of thread between thumb and first finger of 

either right or left hand. 

3. Stretch the thread tight and wind it once around the end of first 

finger, bringing it up between the thumb and first finger. 

4. Rub the thumb out hard, thus twisting the thread. 

5. Draw twisted part down to end of the thread with nail of middle 

finger, thus forming a knot. 

Note — The knots should be very small ordinarily, round, hard (like a ball) and at the 
e.vtreme end of the thread. 

(If desired, break off knots and repeat the exercise.) 



DIAGRAMS OF UNEVEN BASTING 




First 
fastening stitch. 



Fastening 
completed. 



DIAGRAMS OF DRESSMAKER'S, TAILOR'S, OR SLANTING BASTING 



First 
fastening stitch. 



Fastening 
completed. 



"7 




BASTING (Continued) 

Use. Basting is used (a) to hold together temporarily two or more pieces of 
material while a seam is being sewn or an edge finisht {even and 
uneven basting) ; (b) to serve as a guide in sewing long seams straight 
[uneven basting) ; (c) to tack together materials, especially where an 
outer material and lining need to be held as one for later handling 
{dressmaker s, tailor s or slanting basting) ; (d) to mark two parts of 
a garment so that they will be exactly alike {tailor's tacking hasting). 

Directions. 

Position of Cloth. Vertical over a support {table) made of the first and 
middle fingers of the left hand (2 leaves). (See Drill 8.) 

End of Thread. Use a knot. (See Drill 9.) 

This knot should be large size for basting to prevent it from slip- 
ping thru the cloth while the work is in progress, and to make it easy 
to grip when the basting is to be removed. 

Even Basting. Make stitches and spaces Y^" in size. (Pick up 

yi", skip %".) 

Baste toward you. Pointing the needle toward you, run it into the 
material as far back as possible, and a little distance in from the left 
hand edge. Bring the point of the needle out V^" in front and on a 
straight line (follow a thread of the material). Measure with the tape 
measure to see that the amount picked up is exactly Y^" . If not, draw 
the needle back and adjust it. Then draw the needle and thread thru. 
Still pointing the needle toward you, take another stitch. Run the needle 
into the cloth YY' in front of the thread, and bring it out Ya" beyond. 
Continue to do this until the lower end of the muslin is reacht. 

Before fastening, smooth out the material. Take hold of it at the 
beginning between the nails of the thumb and first finger of the left 
hand and draw these down the full length of the cloth. 

Eastening. Make 2 stitches, one over the other, half way back in the last 
space. Cut the thread leaving a short end. 

Joining. When the thread breaks or becomes too short to use, fasten as 
above, and start with a new piece of thread, knot on end, just below the 
fastening. 

Uneven Basting. Make stitches Y^" ^^^ length, and spaces Y^" ■ 
(Pick up ^", skip over Y^"-) 

Baste toward you, as for Even Basting, and fasten with 2 stitches 
over the last space. 

Dressmaker's, Tailor's or Slanting Basting. Make slanting stitches 
Ya" below each other and spaces Ya" ■ (Pick up Ya" and skip over YY' 
below each stitch.) 

Baste toward you, holding the needle in a horizontal position, the 
point facing toward the left. Take up Ya" oi material. Draw the 
needle and thread thru. Again holding the needle horizontally, take 
another stitch Ya" below the first and directly in a line with it. Continue 
to make stitches %" below each time. Fasten by taking 2 stitches half 
way back in the last space, in a horizontal position. 

References. Patton, ''Home and School Sezmng," pages 20, 21, 22. 
Hapgood, ''School Needlework," pages 21, 22, 23. 
Woolman, ''A Sezving Course," pages 44, 45. 
McGlanflin. "Handicraft for Girls" page 63. 

Application. A basted seam. Place together 2 pieces of muslin, 
one directly over the other, and baste with even 
basting stitches 3/^'' in from the long edge. 



RUNNING SEAM 



DIAGRAMS OF RUNNING SEAM 
Running Stitch 



Practice of Stitch 




First part of joining 



Second part 
of joining. 



Fastening, first 
and second stitch. 





RUNNING SEAM 

Exercises. Even basting, running and overcasting stitches. 

Materials. ;1 piece unbleached musHn 6"x254" (practice work). 
2 pieces unbleached muslin each 6"x2^" (seam). 
Needle, thread, etc., as under Basting. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Same as for Basting, except that in preparing the muslin for the 
seam the pieces may be left double width, 4j4" (folded into halves, 
quarters and eighths) and the children allowed to tear these in half 
lengthwise. 

Drills. Same as for Basting. 

Use. Running is used (a) on seams where not much strength is required, or 
where the material is too fine to admit of a heavier stitch; (b) for 
tucking; (c) for shirring. 

Directions. 

Position of Cloth. Vertical over the first finger of the left hand. 

Place the strip of material over the first finger of the left hand 
with the edge out near the tip of the finger. Have just enuf of the 
material away from you to be held under the third finger, and the rest 
forward under the thumb. 

End of Thread. Use no knot. Sew twice in the same place. 

Running. For practice work make stitches and spaces yV " i^ size. 
For Une work take up and skip about 2 threads of the cloth. 

Sew toward you. Pointing the needle toward you, take a stitch 
iV" in size. Draw the needle and thread thru, leaving a short end of 
thread. Sew over the first stitch, cut off the end of thread, and then 
proceed to make even stitches and spaces the same size as those used 
in the beginning (tV)- Several stitches should he taken on the needle 
at a time. 

Before fastening, smooth out the material. Take hold of it at the 
place of starting between the nails of the thumb and first finger of the 
left hand. Draw these down the full length of the cloth. 
Fastening. Sew twice over the last space. 

Joining. When the thread breaks or becomes too short to use, thread the 
needle with a new piece, no knot, — sew twice over the last space, leaving 
a short end of thread. Cut off both ends of thread, and continue the 
running. 

Note — The work should be constantly smoothed between the fingers to avoid puckering. 

The method of running described above is not that used by an adult, where the needle is 
held rigid against the thimble in the right hand in a horizontal position, and the cloth 
is moved back and forth evenly and pushed on the needle with the left hand. It has 
been suggested because easier for children when first doing the running. 

The name, running, is given to the stitch because the needle is made to glide rapidly 
thro the cloth. It resembles even basting on a much smaller scale. 

References. Patton, "Home and School Sewing," pages 35, 36. 
Hapgood, "School Needleiuork," pages 28, 29. 
Woolman, "A Sezuing Course," page 44. 
McGlauflin, "Handicraft for Girls," pages 71, 72. 

Application. Running on a seam previously basted. 

RUNNING SEAM. Hold the seam as for trial running zvork, commence at 
the end away from you, and just below (or to the right of), the basting 
make a row of small, even running stitches all the way across and fasten. 
Remove the basting, trim the edges and overcast both edges together. 
(See under Overcasting.) 



OVERCAST SEAM 



OVERCAST SEAM 



Exercise. Overcasting stitch. 

Materials. 1 piece pad paper {practice cutting). 
Running seam previously prepared. 
Thread, needle, etc., as under Basting. 
Very sharp scissors. 

Preparation of Materials. 
None required. 

Drills. Finger Drills same as for Basting. 

A Cutting Drill, — on paper, — may be given to the children before 
allowing them to cut the cloth seam. 

While giving the Drills, watch the children carefully, correct imme- 
diately any awkward way of holding or using the scissors. Bad habits 
once acquired are diificult to^ break. 

Explain the object of each exercise. 

Have the children work in unison. 

DRILL NO. 1 

Purpose. To learn to hold the scissors properly. 

Suggested Questions. "Which are the blades of the scissors?" "Which 
the bows?" "Why is one blade rounded and one pointed?" 

1. Open the blades slightly. 

2. Point the tips away from you, with the rounded blade down.* 

3. Slip the thumb of the right hand into the upper bow. 

4. Slip the middle finger into the lower bow, and place the first finger 

under the blades as a support. 

DRILL NO. 2 

Purpose. To make imaginary cuts. 

1. Open the blades wide, tips pointing away from you. 

2. Close them full length. 

3. Open wide. 

4. Close them, etc. 

DRILL NO. 3 

Purpose. To learn to cut. 

1. Place piece of pad paper on desk with a short edge toward you. 

2. Open blades of scissors wide. 

3. Raise short edge of paper with left hand. 

4. Slip blades of scissors up on it as far as possible, and at the center 

of short edge. 

5. Close the blades, cutting slowly but firmly. 

6. Open blades again, slip scissors upon the paper and close the blades 

together again, etc. 

Note — Cut all the way to the top, having the children count the number of strokes necessary. 
Get the children to take long, firm strokes in cutting. Have them avfoid nervous, 
snippy cuts. Watch for any facial contortions and correct them at once. 

Have the children examine the straightness of the line of cutting, 
and compare the 2 halves. Continue. Cut one-half again in two, and 
then cut the original remaining half from corner to corner (bias), a 
much more difficult thing to do. 

The children should now be ready to hold the edge of the seam 
taut, and to cut ofif just enuf material along the edge to make it clean-cut. 

* The rounded blade should always be turned down when cutting on a table or over a cloth. 
It prevents scratching the former or catching into the latter. 



DIAGRAMS OF OVERCAST SEAM 
Overcasting 



Edges Overcast Together. 




OVERCAST SEAM (Continued) 

Use. Overcasting is used as a finish for the edges of seams or materials to 
keep them from ravelling. 

Directions. 

Position of Seam. Slightly slanting over the first finger of the left hand. 
Let the material slip down into the palm of the left hand, and hold the 
extreme right hand corner between the thumb and first finger of the 
left hand. 

End of Thread. Use a knot. Conceal it between the 2 pieces of muslin. 

Overcasting — Both edges as one. Make stitches half the depth 
of the seam (about yg" full), and ji" apart. 

Sew from right to left. Point the needle toward you, run it between 
the 2 pieces of cloth at the right hand end and bring it out thru the 
piece toward you half the depth of the seam (ys" full). Draw the 
needle and thread thru, close the 2 pieces of muslin to conceal the 
knot, and, pointing the needle, toward the left shoulder, take the next 
stitch over both edges of the cloth, }i" (full) down (or half the depth 
of the seam), and }i" to the left of the thread. Continue, taking 
stitches over the trimmed edges, being careful to make the spaces equal 
so that the stitches will all slant alike. Avoid drawing the stitches too 
tight. 

Fastening. Take the last stitch thru only the piece of muslin away from you. 
This brings the needle in between the 2 parts of the seam. Fasten 
with 2 small horizontal stitches one over the other. 

Joining. Should the thread break or become too short to use, fasten as above, 
start with a new thread, — knot at end, — bring the needle out thru the 
piece of muslin toward you y^" to the left of the last stitch. This makes 
it a continuation of the stitch in back which was fastened. 

Overcasting — Each edge separately. Press the seam open flat with 
the nail. Take one of the flap parts of the seam, let the rest of the 
material drop. Hold it slanting over the first finger of the left hand, 
and commencing at the extreme right hand corner, run the needle up 
from the under side (so that the knot will be concealed when the flap 
lies flat) and half the depth of the flap. Draw the needle and thread 
thru and continue to make the overcasting stitches half the depth and 
^" apart. When the opposite end has been reacht fasten with 2 small 
horizontal stitches on the upper surface. Turn the seam around and 
overcast the other edge in a similar way, from right to left. 

Note — The name, overcasting, tells how the stitch is to be taken, — that is, over the edge. 
Distinguish clearly between overcasting and overhanding. It may prove helpful to 
separate the part common to each, over, which tells how the sewing is to be done, 
and then to contrast the idea contained in casting and handing. Cast = to throw, 
suggests something large, big, a big effort or distance, hence large stitches over the 
edge, — and hand suggests something dainty, small, delicate, hence tiny stitches. The 
differing purpose of each stitch should of course be associated with it immediately. 
For overcasting, the edges of the material must always be clean-cut. ^ 

A bias seam, as on a skirt, shoutd be overcast from the broad end to the narrow. 
Selvages (=self edges) do not require overcasting. 

References. Patton, "Home and School Sewing," pages 41, 42. 
Hapgood, "School Needlework," pages 31, 32. 
Woolman, ''A Sewing Coarse," pages 48, 49. 
McGlauflin, "Handicraft for Girls," page 71. 

Application. On seams generally. Also on the ends of fringed 
towels and mats. 

If desired, the children may first be taught the overcasting on the folded edge of a 
piece of muslin. Have them draw a line a little more than %" down from the edge to 
represent the seam. 



BACKSTITCHED SEAM 



DIAGRAMS OF BACKSTITCHED SEAM 
Backstitch 



Practice of |i\ Stitch 




Joining', first and First fastening 
second stitch. stitch. 




{Seam should be shown 
3/s' deep.) 




nEVERSE SIDE 



Seam ready for 
overcasting. 

BEGINNIN6 



J0miN6 




BACKSTITCHED SEAM 



Exercises. Even basting, backstitching and overcasting stitches. 

Materials. 1 piece unbleached muslin 6"x2^" (practice work). 
2 pieces unbleached muslin each 6"x2^" (seam). 
Needle, thread, etc., as under Basting. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Same as for Running Seam. 

Drills. Same as for Basting. 

Use. Backstitching is used on seams where strength is required, or where one 
object is to be attacht securely to another, as a tape to a towel, skirt 
etc., or a band put on. 

Directions. 

Position of Cloth. Vertical over the first finger of the left hand. (See 
under Running.) 

End of Thread. Use no knot. Sew twice in the same place. 

Backstitching. For practice work make stitches %" long on the 
under side, and ^V" on the upper side. 

Sew toward you. Pointing the needle toward you, take a stitch 
iV" in size. Draw the needle and thread thru, leaving a short end 
of thread. Sew over the first stitch. Run the needle back into the top 
of these stitches, at the same time bringing it out an equal distance 
(jq") in front of the thread. Cut off the short end of thread left 
in the beginning. Take the next stitch by running the needle back into 
the end of the last stitch, at the same time bringing the needle out iV" 
in front of the thread. Continue to form the stitches in this way. This 
will result in a line of continuous stitches on the upper side (like 
machine-stitching) and a corded effect on the under side (Kensington 
Out line -Stitch). 

Half -Backstitching. Carry the needle only half way back each 
time into the last space. 

Fastening. Sew twice over the last space. 

Joining. Should the thread break or become too short to use, thread the 
needle with a new piece, no knot, — sew once over the last space, leaving 
a short end of thread, then sew back over this, at the same time bringing 
the needle out an equal distance in front of the thread. Cut both ends 
of thread and continue the backstitching. 

BACKSTITCHED SEAM. Place together 2 pieces of unbleached muslin, one 
directly over the other, and baste with an even basting stitch ^" in 
from the long edge. Hold the seam as for trial backstitch work, com- 
mence at the end away from you, and just below (or to the right of) 
the basting make a row of backstitches all the way across and fasten. 
Remove the basting, trim the edges, press the seam open flat with the 
nail and overcast each edge separately. (See Overcasting.) 

Note — The backstitch, — so-called, — because the stitch is taken backward. 

References. Patton,, "Home and School Sewing," pages 37, 38. 
Hapgood, "School Needleivork," pages 23, 24, 25. 
Woolman, "A Sewing Course," pages 47, 48. 
McGlauflin, "Handicraft for Girls," pages 72, 70. 

Application. Small Bag. 

(See Bag after French Fell. This could be made with backstitched 
seams, edges overcast together, instead of with French fells as sug- 
gested in the model.) 



FRENCH FELL 



DIAGRAMS OF FRENCH FELL 
Combination Stitch 



Practice of one backstitch and three running stitches. 




Joining, first 
and second stitch. 



First fastening 
stitch. 



First' Seam of French Fell. 

BEGINNING 




REVERSE. SIDE. 



J0ININ6 






^^. 



J ^ ENDING 



FRENCH FELL 

Exercises. Even basting and combination stitch (running and backstitch). 

Materials. 1 piece of unbleached muslin 6"x2^" (practice work). 
2 pieces of calico*, each 6"x2^" (fell). 
Thread, needle, etc., as under Basting. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Unbleached Muslin. 

Same as for Running Seam. 

Calico. 

(The calico is 36" wide.) 

It is prepared the same as for Running Seam. 

Drills. Same as for Basting. 

Use. The combination stitch is used (a) on seams which require greater 
strength than the running stitch, but do not need to be as strong as 
the backstitch; (b) on fells (double seams). 

Directions. 

Position of Cloth. Vertical over the first finger of the left hand. (See 
under Running.) 

End of Thread. Use no knot. Sew over the first stitch. 

Combination Stitch — One backstitch and three running stitches. 
For practice work make stitches and spaces jq" in size. 

Sew toward you. Pointing the needle toward you, take a stitch 
in the strip of unbleached muslin ^V' ^^ size. Draw the needle and 
thread thru, leaving a short end of thread. Sew back over the space, 
at the same time bringing the needle up in the same place with the 
long piece of thread and taking three equal-size running stitches for- 
ward. Draw the needle thru. Cut the short end of thread, and then 
proceed with the next group of combination stitches. Again run the 
needle back over the last space down thru the muslin at the end of the 
last stitch, up in the same place with the long piece of thread and for- 
ward in three running stitches of the same size. Continue these groups 
of stitches until the lower end has been reacht. This will result on the 
upper surfaces in a group of three stitches, then one stitch set apart by 
spaces, then three stitches, then one set apart by spaces, etc. ; on the 
under surface in a row of stitches resembling running. 

Fastening. Sew twice over the last space. 

Joining. Should the thread break or become too short to use, thread the needle 
with a new piece, no knot, — sew once over the last space, leaving a 
short end of thread, then sew back over this, at the same time bringing 
the needle up in the same place with the long piece of thread and 
taking three equal-size running stitches forward. Cut both ends of 
thread and continue the combination stitch. 

Combination Stitch — One backstitch and one running stitch. 

The same as for one backstitch and three running stitches^ except 
that but one running stitch is made forward each time instead of three. 

* See end of grade. 



DIAGRAMS OF FRENCH FELL (Continued) 
Combination Stitch 

Practice of one backstitch and one running stitch. 




First fastening 
Joining. stitch. 



First seam trimmed 
narrow. 



Second and Final Seam of French Fell. 

Seam turned inside Second seam, — one Seam completed, 

out and basted. backstitch and one running. basting removed 




Vfi 



f>>) 



fi, 



«|5 







REVERSE SIDE 




FRENCH FELL (Continued) 

This will result on the upper surface in a continuous line of stitches, 
and on the under surface in a row of doubled running stitches. 

The fastening and joining would be as above, except that but one 
running stitch would be taken each time instead of three. 

Note — The name, combination stitch, suggests a com-bining or binding together of two 
things, — as the backstitch and running stitch. 

The group of stitches should always be taken on the needle as a whole before it 
is drawn thru. 

Any other combinations, such as a backstitch and two running 
stitches, or four running stitches, etc., may be made according to the 
strength or lack of strength desired. 

Combination Stitch Seam. This would be made as for the Back- 
stitched Seam, except that the combination stitch would be substituted 
for the backstitch. 

FRENCH FELL. When the practice work on the unbleached muslin has been 
carried out, the children may apply the combination stitch on a French 
Fell, — instead of on a seam as above. 

Note — A fell = a double sewing on a seam with no raw edges exposed. 

Use. The fell is used on the seams of undergarments, shirtwaists, thin dresses 
or other washable articles because of the need of having seams especially 
well protected from wear in laundering. 

Directions. 

Position of Seam. Vertical over the first finger of the left hand. (See 
under Running.) 

End of Thread. Use no knot. (See Combination Stitch above.) 

First Seam. Place together the 2 pieces of calico, exactly even, 
and with the right sides out. Baste with an even basting stitch ^" in 
from the long edge. Start the combination stitch (1 backstitch and 3 
running stitches) half way between the basting and the edge. (This 
is done to prevent the material from being wasted, as the seam later 
has to be trimmed very narrow.) Proceed with the 1 backstitch and 
3 running stitches across the seam^ fasten, remove the basting, trim 
the seam very narrow (less than ys"), turn the seam inside out over 
the first finger of the left hand (like a hinge), creasing it flat with the 
nail, remove the seam from the finger, fold the two parts together, roll 
the seam at the top to make the line of the sewing come exactly at the 
top, — crease the seam with the nails and baste with even basting 
stitches }i" down from the edge. 

Second and Final Seam. Form a second seam just below the 
inner cut edges (hold the seam to the light and look thru), using ] 
backstitch and 1 running stitch. (This is a stronger and more com- 
pact stitch than the above and therefore used on the final seam because 
it has to bear all the strain.) Remove the basting. 

Note — The French Fell results in a tiny ridge for a seam. This prevents it from being 
used on very heavy materials because of clumsiness. 

References. Patton, ''Home and School Sewing/' pages 50, 51, 52. 
Woolman, "A Sewing Course/' pages 60, 61. 
McGlauflin, ''Handicraft for Girls/' page 85. 

Application. Button Bag. 



BUTTON BAG 



DIAGRAMS OF BUTTON BAG 
Combination Stitch 



BUTTON BAG 

Exercises. Even basting, combination stitch, running. 

Materials. 1 piece of calico 13"x4^". 

2 pieces of narrow linen bobbin* each 12" long. 

White thread No. 70. 

Needle No. 8 or 9. 

Thimble. 

Tapemeasure. 

Bodkin. 

Scissors. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Calico— U"yiAy2". 

(The calico is 36" wide.) Tear off both selvages, measure 26" 
along one side, lap the calico back and forth a number of times, make 
cuts at the folds at the ends, fold the material in half between these, cut 
thru the doubled folds, — and then tear the material across into strips. 
These will be 13" along the warp and the full width of the material 
(36"). Take each strip in turn, fold it in half, quarters and eighths, 
make cuts at the folds and tear down. This gives pieces 4^" wide. 
Place a large number of these together even in a pile, pull off the loose 
threads and tie with a strip of selvage. 

Linen Bobbin — 12'" long. 

The linen bobbin comes in a continuous piece folded round and^ 
round in flat loop form, 6" long. Cut thru the loops at one end, straight 
out the pieces and tie them together at the center. 



m. 



Thread, Tapemeasure 

See under Ba^/f^ Have some white thread No. 70 added o 
cards, to be used aT Weeded 




Directions. 

Stretch the piece of calico straight by pulling it on the bias. Turn 
it right side out and fold it in half, dividing the length. Have the cor- 
ners match exactly. 

Sides of Bag. 

Measure down 1^" from the top along the sides and crease to mark 
the place. (This portion is to be left open.) Starting at the 1^" 
marks baste down the length of the seams with even basting stitches, 
yi" in from the long edge. Make French fells. Sew the first seams 
with 1 backstitch and 3 running stitches midway between the basting 
and the edge. (See French Fell.) Then remove the bastings, trim 
the seams narrow (less than yi"), turn them inside out, poke out the 
corners well with the closed tips of the scissors, roll the seams to bring 
the line of sewing at the top, baste again ^" down, and sew just below 
the inner cut edges with 1 backstitch and 1 running stitch. Remove 
the bastings, turn the bag inside out and again poke out the corners 
with care. 

* See end of grade. 



BUTTON BAG (Continued) 

Top of Bag. Trim the edges of each one of the 4 open sides of the bag 
where they extend above the seams. Turn the edges back on a straight 
line with the seams and crease. Trim and make a narrow turning 
across the top edges of the bag (about yk" ). Turn back each piece to 
the wrong side as far as the top of the seam, and baste with even 
basting stitches close to the lower edge. Use a row of running stitches 
to fasten the edge. Start it with 2 small stitches (no knot), sewed over 
and over at the extreme right hand end (overhanding) , and fasten it in 
the same way at the left hand end. To form a place for the draw- 
strings, make a second row of running stitches above this, a little higher 
up than the width of one draw-string. Remove the bastings. 

Draw-Strings. 

Thread the bodkin with one of the pieces of linen bobbin and run 
it all the way around the top of the bag. Place the 2 ends together even 
and knot them, both as one, with a single knot about \" beyond the bag. 
Cut the ends of the tape ^" in length and slant them. Run the re- 
maining piece of bobbin around the bag in the same way, starting at 
the opposite side. 

XoTE — It is necessary to use running in place of hemming to finish the lower edge of the 
top of the bag, as the hemming is not taught until Grade 4A. 

The seams of the bag may also be finisht with a backstitched seam, edges overcast 
as one, in place of the French fell. This is not as neat a form, however. 

References. AA'oolman, "A Sewing Course," pa^e 62. 

Goodwin, ''Course in Sewing," pages 21, 22, 23. 



RUG 



DIAGRAMS OF RUG 
Weaving 



RUG 

Exercises, Plain weaving, binding. 

Materials. 1 loom. 

1 Kindergarten weaving needle. 

7}^ yds. of cotton warp. 

About 22 yds. of rug yarn, of 2 or more colors. 

Preparation of Materials. 



FOURTH YEAR 

Grades 4A and 4B 



GRADE 4A 



Course of Study 

sewing. advanced stitches applied to small garments and 
other articles; mending. 

syllabus 

Materials. Cardboard shapes, gingham, ticking, denim, muslin, 
damask, huckaback toweling, cheese cloth, buttons, 
tape, colored thread No. 50, white thread No. 40 and 
No. 70, needles No. 7, 8, 9. 

Exercises. Overhanding; hemming; sewing on buttons. 

Applications. Pin ball, needle-book, doll's furniture; iron holder 
bean bag; pincushion; pencil case; pillow and pillow slip- 
table cloth or napkin; duster: towel; sheet for a doll's 
bed, bedspread; apron; hemmed patch; sewing on but; 
tons and tapes. 



Time Allowed. One honr, once a week. 



OVERHANDED SEAM 



DIAGRAMS OF OVERHANDED SEAM 

OVERHANDING StITCH 




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First fastening stitch. 



Fastening completed. 



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Seam completed. 
JOINING 



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OVERHANDED SEAM 



Exercises. Even bastingAoverhanding, overcasting 



Materials. 2 pieces unbleached muslin, each 6"x254" (seam). 
Thread, needle^ etc., as under Basting, 3B. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Same as for Running Seam. 

Drills. Same as for Basting, 3B. 

Use. (a) To unite 2 horizontal edges with a strong, yet almost invisible stitch, 
— as in stiff covered shapes like pin balls, needlebooks, bottom for bags, 
doll's furniture, etc.; (b) to join 2 edges to form a flat seam, — as in 
sewing lace on a handkerchief, underwear, etc., in overhanding selvages 
for bolster cases, ribbon bags, sachets, in mending rips on gloves and 
seams on stockings. 

Directions. 

Position of Seam. Horizontal, around the end of the first finger of the 
left hand. 

End of Thread. No knot. An end of thread left and sewed over with the 
succeeding stitches. 

OVERHANDED SEAM. Fold over and crease a ^" turning on one long side 
of each piece of unbleached muslin. Place the 2 folded edges together 
even, with turned over edges out (wrong side). Baste with even basting 
stitches close to the top. 

Overhanding Stitch. For practice work take stitches 2 threads 
deep, and a little less than ^V" apart. 

Sew from right to left. Point the needle directly toward you, run 
it thru the top of the folded edge toward you, not more than 2 threads 
deep. Draw the needle and thread thru, leaving an end of %". Turn 
this over toward the left and hold it along the top edge of the muslin. 
(Do not let it slip down between the 2 pieces.) Again pointing the 
needle toward you take a stitch thru both folded edges of the muslin not 
more than 2 threads deep, — and a little less than yV' to the left. 
Draw the needle and thread thru, being sure to have the stitch form 
over the end of thread. Continue to make the overhanding stitches over 
both edges of the muslin, keeping the stitches uniformly shallow and an 
equal distance apart. 

Fastening. When the end of the seam has been reacht, fasten by taking 3 
overhanding stitches backward. This forms 3 small crosses. 

Joining. Should the thread become too short for use, cut it to within Y^" 
of the muslin. Should it break close to the muslin rip a sufficient num- 
ber of stitches to give an end of y%" . Make the end come between the 
two edges of the seam. To do this, draw the edges apart and rip the last 
stitch. With the needle newly threaded, run the needle thru the top of 
the edge toward you in the place where the short end has just been 



OVERHANDED SEAM (Continued) 

drawn out. This brings it the same distance (a Httle less than ^V") 
to the left of the last stitch. Leave an end of ^", -hold both of these 
ends along the top of the muslin and sew them down with the succeeding 
stitches. 

Finish of Seam. 

Remove the basting, press seam open flat with the nail, trim each 
edge and overcast each separately. (See under Overcasting, 3B.) 

Note — If the overhanding stitches are made deeper than one or two threads, an undesirable 
ridge or cord will result. This will prevent the seam from opening flat, edge to edge. 

Where selvages are to be joined no turning is required. 

The name, overhanding, oversezving or top-sezving, tells how the stitch is to be 
made. Contrast it carefully with overcasting (see Grade 3B) so that no confusion 
may exist in the minds of the children. 

References. AIcGlauflin, "Handicraft for Girls/' page 71. 

W'oolman, "x4 Sezving Course," pages 53, 54. 
Hapgood, "School N eedlework," pages 33, 34, 35, 36. 
Patton, ''Home and School Sewing^ pages 32, 33, 34. 

Applications. Pin ball, needlebook, doll's furniture, Iron 
holder, bean bag, pincushion, pillov^^, pencil case, table cloth or 
napkin. 



PIN BALL. NEEDLE BOOK OR DOLL'S FURNITURE 



DIAGRAMS OF PIN BALL 
Lacing Stitch and 0\erhanding 



PIN BALL 

Exercises, Lacing stitch, overhanding. 

Materials. 2 cardboard shapes exactly aHke (foundation). 

(These may be the centers out of the Circular and Elliptical 
Picture Frames, 2A.) 
2 pieces of chambray* 4"x4" or 5"x3>^". 
White thread No. 40 and No. 70. 
Needles No. 7 and No. 8. 
Thimble. 
Tapemeasure. 
Scissors. 



Preparation of Materials. 

Cardboard Shapes — Circle and ellipse. 

These shapes are already prepared. 

Chambray, 

(The chambray material comes 27" wide.) 
with a colored warp and white filling. 



It is a gingham material 



'See end of grade. 



TABLE CLOTH OR NAPKIN 



DIAGRAMS OF TABLE CLOTH OR NAPKIN 
Napery Hem or French on Damask (Overhanging) 



Hems basted. 



First hem turned back. 



Turning corner. 




Overhanding corner. 







In position for turning back second hem. 



Second hem turned back 




i^...^.-..,...,-,..—....- 



TABLE CLOTH OR NAPKIN 

Exercises. Even basting, overhanding. 

Materials. 

Table Cloth — 1 piece of damask 20>4"xl8". 
White thread No. 70. 
Needle No. 9. 
Thimble. 
Tapemeasure. 
Scissors. 

Napkin — 1 square of damask 3"^xS". 

Thread, needle, etc., as above. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Damask — 20^"'xl8" and 3"x3" (^ actual size). 

(The damask material comes double width, 64" wide.) 



HEM 



DIAGRAMS OF HEM 

Hemming Stitch 




HEM 



Exercises. Even basting, hemming. 



Materials. 1 piece of unbleached muslin 6"x4^". 
1 cardboard guide (about 2>4"x^"). 
Needle, thread, etc., as under Basting, 3B. 

Preparation of Materials. 

Unbleached Muslin — 6"x43/2". 

Same as for Basting^ 3B, except that in preparing the muslin for 
the seam the pieces may be left double width, 4^" (folded in halves, 
quarters and eighths). 

Use. For finishing an edge. 

Directions. 

Position of Work. Slightly slanting over the first finger of the left hand, or 

perpendicular. 
End of Thread. Use no knot; end of the thread to be tucked under the 
fold and sewed down. 

Two turnings are necessary for a hem. Crease the first fold Y^" 
on one long side of the piece of muslin and then make a second fold 
over the first one 1" in width. (Use a guide.) Baste close to the edge 
of the first fold 

Hemming. Hem toward you. Commence by pointing the needle 
away from you and running it up under the edge of the fold, not more 
than 2 threads deep. Draw the needle and thread thru until an end of 
^" is left. Tuck this under the edge of the fold with the needle, and 
hold it firmly as the first 2 or 3 stitches are made. Pointing the needle 
slightly toward the left {parallel with the edge of the hem) take up 1 or 
2 threads of the material below, and 1 or 2 threads of the fold. Continue, 
taking each stitch a little further in front of the long piece of thread. 

(This will result in a line of parallel slanting stitches on the wrong 
side and almost horizontal stitches on the right side.) 

Fastening. Take 2 small stitches at the edge of the fold, one over the other. 
(If desired, the needle may also be run back thru the hem for a short 
distance and the thread cut.) 

Joining. Should the thread break, leaving no end, rip a few stitches, raise 
the hem and draw out the last stitch, tucking the end under the fold. 
Should the thread merely grow too short to use, raise the hem, 
draw out the last stitch and tuck the end under the fold. Then proceed 
as at the beginning. Point the needle, — newly threaded, — away from 
you, run it up thru the edge of the fold where the end has just been 
drawn out, tuck this new end under the fold and continue the hemming. 

XToTE — A very narrow hem need not be basted. Use a guide (cut from a card) for wjde 
hems. 

AH folds should he well creased with the thumb nail. 
When the hemming has been completed remove the basting. 

References. Plapgood, "School Needlework," pages 25-28. 

Patton, "Honne and School Sewing," pages 24-28. 
McGlauflin, "Handicraft for Girls," page 70. 
Woolman, "A Sewing Course," pages 51-52. 

Applications. Doll's apron, sunbonnet, hat, handkerchief, hemmed 
patch, etc. 



APRON 



DIAGRAMS OF APRON 



APRON 

Exercises. Even basting, hemming, running, marking, tacking. 

Materials. 1 piece of checked gingham* 7'^xlO". 

1 piece of narrow Hnen bobbin 12" long. 

White thread No. 70. 

Needle No. 8 or 9. 

Some strands of white embroidery cotton (for cross-stitch design). 

Thimble. 

Tapemeasure or cardboard guide. 

Scissors. 



Preparation of Materials. 



HEMMED PATCH 



DIAGRAMS OF HEMMED PATCH 
Hemming Stitch 









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Square Cut. 




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Flaps cut. 



Wrong side, flaps turned back. 



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HEMMED PATCH 

Exercises. Even basting, hemming. 

Materials. 1 piece of checked gingham* 5"x5" {garment). 

1 piece of checked gingham C)y2"yi^y2'" {patching piece). 

White thread Xo. 70. 

Needle No. 9. 

Thimble. 

Tapemeasure. 

Scissors. 

Preparation of Materials. 



HEMMED PATCH (Continued) 
Hemming Stitch 



Right side, patch 
being hemmed. 




Right side, patch completed. 




>5 



J, „ A 

Wrong side, patching piece untrimmed. 



L. A J4 

Wrong side, patching piece trimmed, turned 
in, and hemmed. 



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Right side, patch completed. 



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BUTTONS AND TAPES 



DIAGRAMS OF SEWING ON OF BUTTONS AND TAPES 



GRADE 4B 



Course of Study 

sewing: decorative stitches applied to small garments: 

repairing garments 

syllabus 

Materials. Muslin, lawn, white flannel, outing flannel, gingham, 
colored thread, white thread, embroidery cotton, 
sewing silk, twist, fine and coarse sewing needles, 
thimbles. 

Exercises. Fancy stitches: feather-stitch, catch-stitch, outline stitch, 
chain-stitch, French knots, hemstitch; gathering; tucking; 
piecing of bias stripes; bias fell. 

Applications. Bag; small flannel skirts, babies' sacks or blankets; neck- 
ties or other articles ; dress patch. 

Time Allowed. One ho7ir, once a week. 



GATHERING AND STROKING 



DIAGRAMS OF GATHERING 

Gathering Stitch 




Ending, first step. Final ending. 



Right side, gathering completed. 
Ending. Beginning. Wrong side 



French or Dress Gathering. 
Dress gathering, single thickness. Dress gathering, material folded back. 



GATHERING AND STROKING 

Exercises. Even basting, gathering, stroking. 

Materials. 1 piece of white muslin 3"x4^" {practice zvork). 
Needle, thread, etc., as under Basting, 3B. 

Preparation of Materials. 

White Muslin — 3"x4>^". 

(The white muslin is 36" wide.) Tear off both selvages, measure 
12" along one side, lap the muslin back and forth a number of times, 
make cuts at the folds at the ends, fold the material in half between 
these, cut thru the doubled folds, — fold the material again in half and 
cut thru the doubled folds, — and then tear the material across into 
strips. These will be 3" along the warp and the full width of the 
material across (36"). Take each strip in turn, fold it in half, quar- 
ters, eighths. Make cuts at the folds and tear down. This gives pieces 
4^" wide. Place a number of these together even in a pile, pull off 
the loose threads and tie with a strip of selvage. 

Thread, Tape Measures, etc. See under Basting, 3B. 

GATHERING. 

Use. Gathering is used to make a long part fit a short part for ease and loose- 
ness. 

Directions. 

Position of Cloth. Vertical over the first finger of the left hand. Turn the 
piece of material right side up, and place one of the long edges over 
the first finger of the left hand. Have just enuf of the material 
away from you to be held under the third finger, and the rest forward 
under the thumb. 

E,nd of Thread. Use a double thread (for strength) a little longer than the 
space to be gathered, and knot the two ends together as one. (The 
knot should be large enuf to prevent it from pulling thru.) 

Gathering. Run the needle up from the under side thru the narrow 
hem at the right, 54" below the top edge. Draw the needle and thread 
thru. (This brings the knot on the wrong side.) 

Rule for Gathering. Skip twice as much material as yo>u pick up 
on the needle. 

Take gathering stitches, y%" long, with spaces of yV" between, 
across the top of the muslin and on a straight line. (Make several gath- 
ering stitches at a time.) 

Finish of Gathering. When the left hand end is reacht, run the needle thru 
the narrow hem to the wrong side, cut the thread at the eye of the 
needle and knot the two ends together with a large size knot. 

Note — If the thread should break, or a knot that cannot be undone should come in the thread, 
it will be necessary to pull out the stitches and commence again. 

References. Patton, ''Home and School Sewing," pages 75, 76. 
Hapgood, "School Needlework," pages 36, 37. 



GATHERING AND STROKING (Continued) 



STROKING. 



Use. To make the gathers lie flat so that they may be sewn easily, and to 
make them hang well. 

Directions. Draw up the gathering thread and push the gathers together very 
tight. Place a pin vertically close to the last stitoh, and wind the thread 
around the pin in the form of a figure eight. Pull the gathers into 
place by holding the top edge with the left hand and drawing the bottom 
edge of the material down with the right. Stroke on the right side of the 
material. {Use a coarse needle for stroking; never use a pin.) 

Position of Work. Hold the gathered portion tight over the first finger of 
the left hand, with the gathers parallel with the finger. Have the edge 
toward you under the thumb, and all the rest away from you. Grip 
the needle firmly in the right hand and insert it horizontally in the 
hollow of the first gather. With a quick vigorous stroke press it down- 
ward over toward the thumb, bringing the little plait under the thumb. 
Press on this to flatten it, and proceed to the next gather. 

Stroke the gathers above the gathering thread as well as below it. 

XoTE — Very thin materials, such as organdie, are apt to be markt with the stroking, there- 
fore a better way to make the gathers lie parallel is to press the stitches together 
while they are still on the needle and to pinch them well before drawing the needle 
thru. 

Woolen materials, brilliantine, etc., which do not retain the stroking because of 
the elastic nature of the fiber, can be made to lie in parallel gathers by putting a 
second row of gathering about ]4r" below the first, having the stitches and spaces 
come directly under the stitches and spaces in the row above. 

References. Hapgood, "School Needle^work/' pages 38, 39, 40, 41. 

Patton, "Home and School Sewing," pages yy, 78, 79, 80. 

Applications. Apron, sunbonnet, child's hat, dusting cap, etc. 



WORK BAG 



FANCY STITCHES 

Catch or Herring-Bone Stitch, Feather, Coral or Brier Stitch, 
Kensington Outline Stitch, Chain-Stitch, French Knots, Hemstitch 



CATCH OR HERRINGBONE-STITCH 

Exercise. Catch-stitch (also called cat-stitch). 

Materials. 1 piece of white muslin 6"x2^" (practice work). 
Thread, needle, etc., as under Basting, 3B. 

Use. For holding seams or edges flat, mainly on woolen materials, — and for 
ornamentation. 

Position of Work. Perpendicular, over first finger of the left hand. 

Directions. Use a knot ; conceal it on wrong side. 

Commence at the bottom and work away from you. Run the needle 
up from the under or wrong side. Keeping the thread to the left, point 
the needle toward you, and take a stitch about %" in length, diagonally 
34" to the right. Draw the needle and thread thru. (This forms a 
stitch slanting upward to the right.) Then keeping the thread to the 
right, point the needle toward you, and take a stitch about j^" in length 
diagonally %" to the left, — or on a line with the lower end of the first 
stitch. (As the needle and thread are drawn thru, a stitch is formed 
slanting upward to the left and crossing over the first stitch.) So pro- 
ceed, taking a stitch diagonally to the right, and then diagonally to the 
left, having the thread out of the way each time, and keeping the stitches 
on a straight line. 

Fastening. Complete the last stitch by running the needle thru to the wrong side 
where the next stitch would have been made. Fasten with 2 or 3 small 
stitches. 

References. Hapgood, "School Needlework/' pages 117, 118. 

Patton, "Home and School Sewing/' pages 138, 139. 
Woolman, ''A Sewing Course/' page 103. 
McGlauflin, "Handicraft for Girls/' pages yy, 78. 

Application. On backstitched patch and flannel skirt. 



FEATHER. CORAL OR BRIER STITCH 

Exercise. Feather-stitch, — single, double, triple, etc. 

Materials. Same as for Catch-Stitch. 

Use. For ornamentation. 

Position of Work. Perpendicular, over the first finger of the left hand. 

Directions. Use a knot ; conceal it on the wrong side. Commence at the top, and 
work tozvard you. Run the needle up from the under or wrong side. 
Place the thumb on the thread near the muslin, throw the rest of the 
thread to the right, and pointing the needle slightly slanting toward the 
left, take up about ys" of material below, diagonally to the right. Pull the 
needle and thread thru downward, being careful to have the needle come 
out over the thread. This forms the first little leaf of the vine. Place 
the thumb again on the thread, throw the thread around to the left, and 
pointing the needle slightly to the right, take about ys" of material, 
diagonally below, having the top of this little leaf on a line with the 
bottom of the one just made. So proceed, taking a stitch about ys" in 
size alternately, first on the right, and then on the left, but always having 
the thread tinder the needle. 

Fastening. Run the needle thru to the wrong side close belozu the last stitch. 
Fasten with 2 or 3 small stitches. 

Note — Feather-stitch may be made single, double, triple, quadruple, etc., and the leaf parts 
may be made straight or slanting. 

References. Hapgood, "School N eedleivork," pages 119, 129. 

Patton, "Home and School Sewing," pages 137, 138. 
McGlauflin, "Handicraft for Girls," pages 75, y6. 
Woolman, "A Sezuing Course," pages 99, 100. 

Application. On the hem of the flannel skirt, and on other objects. 



KENSINGTON OUTLINE STITCH 

Exercise. Outline-stitch. 

Materials. The same as for Catch-Stitch. 

Use. For ornamentation ; to emphasize the outlines of a design. 

Position of Work, That portion of the design on which work is to be started 
held in a perpendicular position over the first finger of the left hand. 

Directions. Use no knot. 

Work away from you. Commence by pointing the needle toward 
you and taking a small stitch (about tV')- Draw the needle and thread 
thru, leaving a short end. Take a second stitch over the first one to 
strengthen it. Throw the thread to the right, and run the needle in the 
material yV" higher up on the design, bringing the point of the needle out 
in the top of the last stitch. Draw the needle and thread thru. Again 
keeping the thread to the right, take another stitch iV' above, and bring 
the needle out in the top of the last stitch. So continue, always making 
the stitches of the same size, and keeping the thread thruout to the right. 

Turning of a Corner. Run the needle thru to the wrong side at the extreme 
corner, and then bring it up again one thread to the left. Proceed with 
the outline-stitches. 

Fastening. Run the needle thru to the wrong side, where the next stitch would 
have been made. Fasten with 2 or 3 small stitches. 

Note — Avoid drawing the stitches too tight. Make the stitches very small when rounding 
a curve. The stitches on the upper side should form a cord, while on the under side 
they should look like all-backstitching. 

Reference. Woolman, "A Sewing Course" page 113. 

Application. On sofa-cushion and pin-cushion tops, bags, doilies, 
turn-over collar sets, etc. 



CHAIN-STITCH 



FRENCH KNOTS 



HEMSTITCH 



NECKTIE 



DIAGRAMS OF NECKTIE 
Tucking 



NECKTIE 

Exercises- Even basting, overhanding, hemming, running. 
Materials. 



FLANNEL PETTICOAT 



DIAGRAMS OF FLANNEL PETTICOAT 



FLANNEL PETTICOAT 

Exercises. Even basting, backstitching, catch-stitching, feather-stitching, workt 
bar. 

Materials. 1 piece of white flannel 7"x4^". 
•White silk, A. 
White twist, D. 
Needle No. 9. 
Darning needle No. 5. 
Thimble. 
Tapemeasure. 
Scissors. 

Preparation of Materials. 



BACKSTITCHED PATCH 



DIAGRAMS OF BACKSTITCHED PATCH 
Backstitch 



Hole. 



Square cut. 






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Flaps cut 



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One side turned down. 




BACKSTITCHED PATCH 

Exercises. Even basting, backstitching, catch-stitching. 

Materials. 1 piece of striped outing flannel* 5"x5" (garment). 

1 piece of striped outing flannel 3}'2'^x3^" [patching piece). 

White thread No. 70. 

Needle No. 9. 

Thimble. 

Tapemeasure. 

Scissors. 

Preparation of Materials. 



DIAGRAMS OF BACKSTITCHED PATCH (Continued) 

Backstitch and Catch-Stitch 



Wrong side, flap basted to patching piece. 



Wrong side, seam backstitched. 




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Wrong side, patching piece trimmed same Wrong side, seam prest open and catch-stitched, 

shape as flaps. 



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Right side, patch completed. 






BIAS FELL 



DIAGRAMS OF BIAS FELL 



BIAS FELL 



Exercises. Even basting, combination stitch (1 backstitch, 1 running stitch) 
hemming. 

Materials- 1 piece of white muslin 6"x4^/2". 
White thread No. 70. 
Needle No. 9. 
Thimble. 
Tapemeasure. 
Scissors. 

Preparation of Materials. 



PIECING OF BIAS STRIPS 



FIFTH YEAR 

Grades 5 A and 5B 



a 



GRADE 5A 

Course of Study 
sewing: applied design; repairing garments. 

syllabus 

Materials. Red flannel, cashmere, darning cotton, darning needles, 
muslin, white thread, fine sewing needles, thimbles and 
varied materials for the applied design work and gar- 
ments. 

Exercises. Darning. 

Applications. Applied design on any of the following articles : collars 
and cuffs, center pieces, doiles, pin cushions, magazine 
covers, etc. Doll's kimonas, circular aprons or other 
garments; dress darn. 

Time Allowed. One hottr, once a week. 



GRADE 5B 



Course of Study 
sewing: drafting, cutting and making small garments. 



SYLLABUS 



Materials. 



Stockinette, darning cotton, darning needles, muslin, 
underwear trimmings, colored thread, white thread, fine 
and coarse sewing needles, thimbles. 



Exercises. Darning ; buttonhole-stitch. 

Applications. Stocking darn; buttonholes; undergarments, small size. 
Time Allowed. One hour, once a week. 



SIXTH YEAR 

Grades 6A and 6B 



GRADE 6A 

Course of Study 

sewing: drafting and sewing. estimating quantity of material; 
drafting to scale. applied design. 

syllabus 

Exercises. Drafting, cutting and making small garments. 

Applications. Fancy apron; small skirt, shirtwaist or other articles. 

Time Allowed. One hour, once a week. 



GRADE 6B 



Course of Study 

sewing: drafting and sewing: the study of color harmony in 
connection with textiles; drafting to scale; garment 
making, applied design. 

syllabus 

Exercises. Drafting of garments or the use of bot paper patterns ; 
cutting and making garments. 

Applications. Skirt or French waist, or shirt waist. 

{These garments may be made small or fiUl-size ) 

A small or large cooking outfit may be made for classes 

beginning cooking in the seventh year. 

Time Allowed. One hour, once a week. 



Note — In connection with the drafting and making of clothing, instruction should be given 
which will enable the pupils to select, with the wisest expenditure of money, such 
materials and designs as are suited for various occasions and individuals. 



SEVENTH YEAR 

Grades 7 A and 7B 



GRADE 7A 



Course of Study 

sewing:* drafting and making full-size garments; use of pat- 
terns, applied design. 

syllabus 

Exercises. Drafting ; use of patterns ; making garments ; rolling 
and whipping ruffles; napery hemming and marking. 

Applications. Full-size undergarments, — corset cover, flannel or white 
skirt; hemming and marking household linen. 

Time Allowed. One hoiLV and twenty mimUes, once a week. 



Advanced sewing is taken by girls in the seventh and eighth years in schools not provided 
with kitchens. 



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GRADE 7B 



Course of Study 

sewing:* drafting and making full-size garments; use of pat- 
terns, applied design. 

syllabus 

Exercises. Drafting ; use of patterns; making garments; hemstitch- 
ing, French knots; matching and joining embroidery. 

Applications. Undergarments or unlined cotton shirt waist, or child's 
dress, or fancy collars and cuffs. 

Time Allowed. One hour and twenty 7nintctes, once a week. 



Note — Instruction should be given in the economic planning of material and in the applica- 
tion of color schemes. 

* Advanced sewing is taken by girls in the seventh and eighth years in schools not provided 
with kitchens. 



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EIGHTH YEAR 

Grades 8A and 8B 



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GRADE 8A 

Course of Study 
sewing:* drafting and making garments. applied design. 

syllabus 

Exe7^cises. Garment making ; dress trimming ; folds and slip-stitch- 
ing; dress fastenings; button-holes and eyelets; sewing 
on of hooks and eyes. 

Applications. Small dress skirt, large skirt or other articles. 

Time Allowed. One kot^- and twenty minutes, once a week. 



* Advanced sewing is taken by girls in the seventh and eighth years in schools not provided 
with kitchens. 



GRADE 8B 

Course of Study 
sewing:* drafting and making garments. applied design. 

syllabus 

Exercises. Garment making; design applied to the decoration of a 
garment. 

Applications. Unlined cotton dress, or infant's outfit, or fancy neckwear 

Time Allowed. One hou^'- and twenty minutes, once a week 



* Advanced sewing is taken by girls in the seventh and eighth years in schools not provided 
with kitchens. 



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